Question about 2005 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

2000Elantra has fuel,air,spark and 2 cylinders have50#s compression &2 have over100#s compression~ A.- the motor out of timing.or B.-the motor has issue with the valve train.or C. 2 bad cylinders. How much #s of compression for 2.0L engine?

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  • Jeff Peterson
    Jeff Peterson Feb 13, 2014

    Hi Jeff Peterson, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? My 2000Elantra is at UGMotors in Kenosha,WI. The mechanic went about the process of diagnosing the no start problem.=big4 F,A,S,C.~Elantra has Fuel reaching the cylinders,Air n Spark. 2 of the cylinders read only 50 pounds Compression and the other 2cylinders have over 100 pounds Compression. THEY say determining fuel pressure to the injectors,injectors pulse, air flow to the cylinders, spark ignition, and the compression test of each cylinder, took 1.5hrs.diagnostic time.WANTS to start but unable to do so because it may have a problem in ONE or MORE of the following.1) the motor is out of timing.2)the motor has an issue with the valve train.3) the motor has 2 bad cylinders. THEY say 3 POSSIBLE issues are not cheap to fix. The CAR STARTED AND RAN FINE EVEN WHEN the TEMPS DROPPED to-3,-5. BUT when TEMPS dropped to -10 the following morning SHE turned OVER~ BUT didn't START. .NO misfires,NO hard starting. NO funny noises or click or clacker. Only tried starting her 3-4second cranks. Then let her rest. ALSO NEW BATTERY. Thank YOU! for what info you can JEFF PETERSON 262/414-0223

  • Jeff Peterson
    Jeff Peterson Feb 13, 2014

    What is estimates for problems like these?

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  • Hyundai Master
  • 5,317 Answers

All four cylinders should have over 100 #'s of pressure-ideally over 150#'s-and they should be even or close to even.
You could take off the timing belt cover and check the timing, but it sounds like 2 bad cylinders-which could be a valve train problem.

Posted on Feb 13, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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hansola
  • 279 Answers

SOURCE: NO COMPRESSION ON ALL CYLINDERS - TESTER GAUGE GOES UP THEN DOWN

The fault may very well be with the tester itself: The compression tester should have a check or "HOLD" valve which causes the needle on the gauge to REMAIN at it's highest recorded point. For example, my 1993 Isuzu Rodeo had a compression of 160 psi. The gauge "holds" the needle at the measurement UNTIL THE VALVE IS RELEASED-(mine had a button that needed to be pressed to release the pressure) then there will be a slight discharge of the pressure contained within, the needle should drop back to zero, and THEN you should be able to remove the tester. What I am getting at is if the pressure drops that fast, I think the "HOLD" valve on it may be defective, OR the tester is not properly sealing on the combustion chamber (stripped threads?). Might be worth buying another one for 20$ just to be sure.

A four cylinder engine, you say? Very rarely will you have ALL of your cylinders exhibit the same pressure loss symptoms. How did the other three cylinders test?

Here are the components required for a running engine to fire:
1-good spark (adequate voltage, good plugs/wires)
2-dedicated fuel supply (fuel pump with adequate pressure)
3-timing (slack in timing chain/belt?)

If the timing belt broke or maybe even jumped a tooth or two, it COULD cause DAMAGE to your engine-pistons hitting valves-if it IS what they call an "INTERFERENCE" engine.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

Testimonial: "Very helpful insight."

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 hyundai accent 1.5 liter SOHC 12v engine.

With regrets, Not likely, pull the vlave cover and observe the height of the valves, if it is bent it should be not quite as tall as the rest.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

ghost45
  • 1280 Answers

SOURCE: one cylinder has zero compression. took head off

OK!... did you do a cylinder 'leak down test'?.. .if not, do it! If any 'unacceptable' leakage, have the head REDONE! NOW!.. you must BE SURE the valve timing is accurate!... Go to www.hmaservice.com and register( Vehicle by VIN). Afterward, you have access to shop manuals, service bulletins, wiring diagrams, etc. about your vehicle.

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: I get a engine light

not likely,idol air module controls fuel and air mixture for all cylinders not just 1,I would try a simple tune up

Posted on Sep 18, 2010

iambanshee74
  • 3489 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0, #1

If it is only that circuit and not the parts itself, it is likely that either someone has damaged the wires going to the ECM to drive the injectors or the ECM has failed on those 2 drivers. My suspicion is that this happened shortly after the install. Find where the wires are for the device itself and see if they are in close proximatey to any wiring harnesses or has been cut. This is where you will likely find the culprit.

Posted on May 06, 2011

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1 Answer

What causes misfires?


If the misfire is on one a particular cylinder or perhaps 2, these issues need to be addressed and checked...
1. Power to the spark plug.
2. Coils and spark plug condition.
3. Fuel supply to the cylinder
4. Air supply to the cylinder
5. Correct fuel/ air mixture to the cylinder
6. Cylinder compression. Low compression or a cylinder compression level below spec will result in a misfire. If the compression tester shows low compression in a cylinder the causes of the poor compression reading then need to be addressed.

The fault codes generated by the computer and read by an appropriate scanner will tell you which cylinder or cylinders are misfiring.

Nov 14, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cylinder


It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one cylinder misfiring, it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. You dont mention which cylinder, so I will pick one - #2. Let's start with Spark. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If cylinder #3 misfires, then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the misfire didn't move - still on Cylinder #2, then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the cylinder #2 is still misfiring, get a new distributor and rotor cap - one of those is your problem.
Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, that injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.
When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another symptom would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random misfires or a no-start/no-run symptom.
And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.
Here is a chart of pictures of various spark plug conditions. It can help diagnose all kinds of troubles in engines. Good luck!
edc57e39-c387-44d7-a59f-d5affdb7d7d0.jpg

Apr 22, 2014 | 1980 Mercedes-Benz 280 SLC

1 Answer

Why is my 2003 gmc v8 envoy skipping & shaking


You are misfiring. If you have Autozone (or similar) research your check engine light, they will come up with one or more of the following codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 etc. etc.P0308. The P0300 code refers to "Random/Multiple misfires" whereas the other codes refer to that particular cylinder (last digit) misfire. The P0300 code sets when 2 or more cylinders misfire (can be the same 2 over and over, but it takes at least 2 cylinders to misifre to set that code. The others only take one misfire to set the code. Now that you know what is happening, here is how to fix....
Takes all to fire a cylinder (Fuel, Spark, Air & Timing) properly. If you have random or multiple misfires, it is likely something that is COMMON to all cylinders - like the air intake/throttle body area - throttle body can get carbon buildup and not open/close properly. Check the fuel pressure to the fuel rail(s), fuel filter clogged? When you turn your key to the "ON" position, do you hear the fuel pump turn on (whine) and then shut off? No whine, means no fuel pump. Check all fuses and fuse relays related to the fuel delivery system. Check the distributor cap/rotor for any signs of carbon tracking/arcing. Do you have good spark from coil? Check wiring for the Camshaft Position Sensor/Crankshaft position Sensor for timing issues. Finally, check compression on all cylinders. Need good compression for combustion to take place.

For a single cylinder (example Cylinder #2) - Easiest to check is spark. Pull the plug and look at it. Is it wet and smell like fuel? If so, then swap it with cylinder next to it. If the problem moved, then its the plug. If the misfire is still on Cylinder #2, then swap the plug wire (both ends). If the misfire is still on Cylinder #2, then swap the coil. (see where this is going?) If the plug is dry, then check the fuel injector for operation. Noid light tester or you can get a long screwdriver and stick one end on your ear and the other on the injector - it should make a steady, rhythmic clicking sound if it is functional when caricon1.png is running. No sound? Replace. Is the plug oily? Check cylinder #2 for compression. No compression or little compression means either head gasket blown or bad/sticking valve (intake or exhaust) = big money to get fixed. Timing on one cylinder is hard to test without correct test tools. Timing is likely not a problem on a single cylinder misfire. Good luck.

Apr 22, 2014 | 2003 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

P0302


Cylinder misfire on #2 cylinder,

Takes all to fire a cylinder (Fuel, Spark, Air & Timing) properly. Easiest to check is spark. Pull the plug and look at it. Is it wet and smell like fuel? If so, then swap it with cylinder next to it. If the problem moved, then its the plug. If the misfire is still on Cylinder #2, then swap the plug wire (both ends). If the misfire is still on Cylinder #2, then swap the coil. (see where this is going?) If the plug is dry, then check the fuel injector for operation. Noid light tester or you can get a long screwdriver and stick one end on your ear and the other on the injector - it should make a steady, rhythmic clicking sound if it is functional when car is running. No sound? Replace. Is the plug oily? Check cylinder #2 for compression. No compression or little compression means either head gasket blown or bad/sticking valve (intake or exhaust) = big money to get fixed. Timing on one cylinder is hard to test without correct test tools. Timing is likely not a problem on a single cylinder misfire. Good luck.

Apr 21, 2014 | 2004 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

Cadillac allante problems


Takes all to fire a cylinder (Fuel, Spark, Air & Timing) properly. If you have random or multiple misfires, it is likely something that is COMMON to all cylinders - like the air intake/throttle body area - throttle body can get carbon buildup and not open/close properly. Check the fuel pressure to the fuel rail(s), fuel filter clogged? When you turn your key to the "ON" position, do you hear the fuel pump turn on (whine) and then shut off? No whine, means no fuel pump. Check all fuses and fuse relays related to the fuel delivery system. Check the distributor cap/rotor for any signs of carbon tracking/arcing. Do you have good spark from coil? Check wiring for the Campshaft Position Sensor/Crankshaft position Sensor for timing issues. Finally, check compression on all cylinders. Need good compression for combustion to take place. Your old fuel injectors were probably OK. Using a multimeter, check the resitance of a new one versus an old one - probably close in readings.

For a single cylinder - Easiest to check is spark. Pull the plug and look at it. Is it wet and smell like fuel? If so, then swap it with cylinder next to it. If the problem moved, then its the plug. If the misfire is still on Cylinder #2, then swap the plug wire (both ends). If the misfire is still on Cylinder #2, then swap the coil. (see where this is going?) If the plug is dry, then check the fuel injector for operation. Noid light tester or you can get a long screwdriver and stick one end on your ear and the other on the injector - it should make a steady, rhythmic clicking sound if it is functional when car is running. No sound? Replace. Is the plug oily? Check cylinder #2 for compression. No compression or little compression means either head gasket blown or bad/sticking valve (intake or exhaust) = big money to get fixed. Timing on one cylinder is hard to test without correct test tools. Timing is likely not a problem on a single cylinder misfire. Good luck.

Apr 21, 2014 | 1991 Cadillac Allante

1 Answer

Running on two cylinders


The removal of # 3 & # 4 tells you those cylinders are
contributing the most ,as removing the wire causes the motor
to stop
My guess is that the other cyl #1 & #2 are not firing at all, if there
is no change

If you had a V6 or V8 it would continue to run,not so with only
4 cylinder

Learn or study the ignition system & replace any ignition control
module that fires the first two cylinders

Get an HEI Test Spark Plug & put the plug wire to that & ground it
& see if you get spark,check all the plug wires one at a time.

Don't forget timing belts that are worn & slip,battery voltage,alternator output & A/C Ripple coming out of it

I would check compression or better yet, do a cylinder leak down test.
Could be you have worn valves in #1 & #2 thus little spark
Check fuel pressure at motor with a gauge

Mar 08, 2014 | Daewoo Lanos Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 fiesta 1 2 misfire on cylnder 2


It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one misfire code (P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire), it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. Let's start with Spark. I'm going to assume you have a code reader. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Clear the code. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If a code appears with P0303 (the last digit refers to cylinder number), then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the code reappeared with P0302 (Cylinder #2 again), then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Clear the code. Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the P0302 code comes back, swap the coil. See where this is going?

Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Clear code. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, ithat injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.

When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another code would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random (Code P0300) misfires.

And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.

Now, clear that code and get started! Good luck!

Feb 17, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine turns over but wont start? it has spark! and fuel!


Pull out # 1 spark plug and put back into plug wire, rest on motor block so that end of electrode is against metal. turn motor over and have a finger or compression gauge in # 1 cylinder, check to see if spark occur at same time as compression (compression will blow air past finger or raise gauge). When you say it has fuel do you mean gas tank has fuel? Are you sure fuel is getting to the cylinders? are plugs wet with fuel? Does it turn over but kinda thumps or backfire (Caugh)? Check the spark and compression first. if they don't happen at same time, the timing skipped or belt broke. if all is good pull plugs and inspect, could be flooded (WET) from fuel. either replace or spray with starting fluid and compressed air to dry them. spray starting fluid into air intake if starts then stalls, try again, if same thing happens then you have a fuel problem. try these suggestions first 1/2 hr time table, hopefully sucess, if not it sure indicates fuel.

Jan 10, 2011 | 1995 Subaru Legacy

3 Answers

I have a 1997 GMC Jimmy, 4.3 v6, i have replaced timing chain


fuel pressure regulator it is located on the spider pump behind the throttle body

Feb 13, 2010 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

WHAT MAKES SPARK PLUGS FLOODED WITH PETROL .ITS GOT SPARK ,


The fuel isnt being burned so it remained liquid & quietly collkected on the spark plugs. Clean & dry the plugs & try a few drops of oil in the cylinders to restore compression. It just may work. If that doesn`t do it then either the plugs are not producing enough spark to ignite the fuel, the cylinder compression is not sufficient for combustion, the spark timing is incorrect, or the air fuel ratio is way off. Your need to determine which is the case and why. You may want to start with a spark tester that will test for sufficient firing voltage ( cheap tester can be bought at any parts supply store for a few dollars). Then check cylinder compression. If the compression is low you should perform a cylinder leak down test to determine why the compression is low. Finally, if you have good spark, good compressoin, and the timing is ok then look for a really big vacuum leak caused by a stuck open EGR valve or a newly ruptured brake booster diaphram.

Jan 25, 2010 | 1997 BMW 318

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