Question about 1992 Nissan 300ZX

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300zx started smoking then died out

I was driving my 1992 non turbo 300zx in the rain and it started smoking and a really putrid smell started, then my car died out. I started it back up and drove it about 2 blocks and then it died so i popped the clutch and gained power for about 5 seconds and it died out again no headlights or gauges were working. Please HELP

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  • Arturs Viksna Feb 13, 2014

    Hi Garrett Cail, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? What color was smoke and what that smell was like plastic or oil or something else?

  • Garrett Cail Feb 13, 2014

    The smoke was white and the smell was like something ive never smelt before it was like raunchy.



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  • 101 Answers

Sounds to me like you had an electrical burn out or near fire condition. Water may have gotten into an open area like wiring harness or fuse block and caused a short and what you were smelling is the insulation or other plastics burning. I would take the car to a auto electric specialist for diagnostics.

Posted on Feb 13, 2014


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SOURCE: 1990 300zx non-turbo coupe 5 speed

Old post but I would like to state that white smoke and white vapor are two different thing and blue smoke is sometimes so ligh it looks white but does act like heavy smoke. Evanescence of water vapor looks a lot like smoke but dissipates a lot quicker but in mass quantities can look like smoke (yes..I been dying to use that word ever since I heard of the band Evanescence lol). Transmission fluid can be sucked into the engine via a bad shift modulator both that has no bearing here (just FYI). In either case you would be fouling out spark plugs due to oil or water saturation and causing unburned fuel to be expelled.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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SOURCE: 1986 Nissan 300ZX starting problem

Dear llama470: there is a fuel pump relay located in the worst possible place Nissan could possibly think of! In the right 1/4 panel just forward of the wheel house. You have your work cut out for you if you want to get to it.
1st remove the sill plate from the door opening.
2.nd remove the trim panel which goes across the roof behind the seat (most 300ZX's are "t" tops")
3rd carefully gain access to the interior 1/4 panel. I gave you these instructions because the plastic gets very brittle and cracks easily when stressed. Anyway, as you remove the panel, just about 1.2 up the 1/4 just behind the door striker is a GREEN relay. That is the starter relay. The relay is energized by the ECM. There is a black wire with a few traces or red dots along the way which will end up going to pin # 108 on the ECM connector. If you ground this wire, the relay should click and the pump should run. Most Japanese cars make and break the grounds, not the positives, so the positive will be hot as soon as you turn on the key. The reason it will start then die, is because the fuel pump has two circuits to run on. One relates to the cranking circuit which will energize the relay and the other will only energize it after the car has started. This was designed so that if the car were in an impact, the impact would kill the fuel pump. NOW, The ECM is what runs the relay after the car has started. you may need to try another ECM.
The fuel pumps are easy to get to on this car. Remove the foam insulating floor covering behind the seats and you will see a large round metal plate with a wire harness going through it. There are quite a few bolts going around the perimeter to retain the plate. NOTE! BEFORE YOU REMOVE THIS PLATE, BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THE PUMP DOES NOT RUN.
Here is another way you can check:disconnect the starter solenoid and with the help of a friend, have them hold the key in the start position. You should hear a kind of shishhhhing sound coming from around the fuel lines. Also, prior to turning the key, pinch the fuel hose where the fuel filter is and you will notice it is easy to pinch flat. If the pump is working, when you turn the key to the cranking position and hold it, try pinching it again. The hose will now fee; some what hard. This would indicate it has fuel pressure, thus indicating the pump is working. Which means is all likely hood the ECM is probably the culprit. Most other components wont keep it from running, it will just run badly. Let me know how you do. Good luck

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

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Garyq1970 is right - white smoke usually indicates burning coolant. How full is your radiator? You should see coolant right up at the top of the fins inside when you remove the cap. Take a look and see if a) you are low, and b) if the coolant looks sludgy or contaminated, brown in color. If it's low, top it off and monitor it over a week's driving and see if you have to refill it again. If it's contaminated and brown, you have a problem.

Usually when you're burning off coolant, it's because of a torn head gasket allowing coolant into the cylinders. If it's not contaminated, that means the tear is between a water galley and the cylinder. If it's browish looking, then it's a tear between a water galley, an oil galley, and the cylinder, and the coolant and oil are mixing as well as being burned off. Either way, it's a very involved repair, as the top of the engine has to be removed to fix the problem. This involves removal of the upper and lower intake manifolds, and the entire timing belt system (which, given the in-depth job that the timing belt is, you might as well replace it, its tensioner, and the water pump and thermostat as well, to save yourself the labor later on). It's not a job for the faint of heart or wallet.

You may not be looking at such a repair but if you can monitor the coolant for a week or so and reply afterward and let me know, I'll take it along from there (just send me a request on here).

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