Question about Honda CR-V
Our crv will start up in the morning but once we shut it off will not restart even with a jump.recently our driver door stopped opening from the inside so we have to roll down the automatic windows while its running and reach thru to unlock to get out. can that have anything to do with it? we just had the coil and distributor replaced. cant go anywhere.. when it wont start you can still hear the fuel pump engage and it tried to turn over.. we are stumped
Posted by Anonymous on
Could be all related but may also want to check each system individually. Door issue could be an internal mechanical problem or electrical wiring. Check wiring that runs along driver door hinge to the switch. You will find a rubber boot and door harness is located inside. Check these and if you find any damaged or broken, repair.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The common cause of the problem that you related.
Is the FUEL PUMP RELAY " Called MAIN RELAY.
Is located : left side under the dash.
Is a BIG relay gray colour. with a connector of 7 or 8 wires.
I recomend replace the relay.
And letme know if you solve your problem.
I hope this information work on your problem.
Thank you for use fixya.
Posted on Jul 25, 2008
turn ignition key on to the run posistion engine light should come on then go out within 5 seconds. if it doesn't the main relay for the computer or the computer itself are .bad
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
try cleaning the connector that goes to the fuel pump, sometimes they corrode on inside. If that does not fix, test the wires feeding fuel pump with a multi meter until the condition shows itself again, if voltage drops to zero or very low then wiring problem, if voltage is unchanged with problem and fuel pump is not working and connectors are all clean, try replacement of fuel pump.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
SOURCE: 1999 silverado 4.3 cranks but
First check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module
The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.
That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.
If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.
To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
To replace the distributor follow this procedure;
The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.
There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This "static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.
1. With the engine at top dead center.
2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing indicating the number one position.
3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, Then make a reference mark of the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and the more precise you mark the position, the easier the installation of the new distributor will be. This will be reference mark #1.
4. Remove the distributor lock down bolt, (the lock down clamp will most likely be attached to the distributor and if so it should not be removed from the distributor) then slowly lift up on the distributor about three inches and note the direction that the ignition rotor turns, and when the ignition rotor stops turning then mark the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and then lift the distributor striaght up and out, and remove the gasket or any left over gasket material from the intake manifold. The more precise you mark the position the easier it will be to install the new distributor and an assistant might be helpful. This will be reference mark #2
Once the distributor has been removed it is important that the engine does not get cranked over by the starter or the crankshaft turned at all, or the reference marks will become useless.
Be sure that the new distributor is complete with a new module and that there is a new gasket in place on the distributor.
1. Lower the distributor with gasket down into the distrbutor well and align the ignition rotor with the #2 reference mark and when the distributor gear engages the drive gear on the camshaft then the ignition rotor should turn to the #1 reference mark as the distributor sets all the way back down flush on the intake manifold.
2. Install and tighten the lock down bolt, and If the distributor is properly installed then the ignition rotor should be pointing to the #1 reference mark and the #1 position on the distributor housing with the engine on top dead center.
Replace the distributor cap and connect the spark plug wires, and see if the engine will start, if the engine does start and the check engine light does not come on (assuming that it was not on before) then the distributor is properly installed and there is no further timing requirements.
Let me know if you require any further assistance.
Posted on Jul 31, 2010
SOURCE: when key is turned everything
Check to see if the security light is on. Sounds like you have an antitheft mode problem. If you can jump it on the starter but not at ignition, sounds like the security is blocking you.
If there is a light on your dash that says security when you put the key forward, read this info.
So the Security light is on or flashing in your vehicle and you are looking at 1 of 3 things. Either the vehicle won't crank over and start, It cranks but dies in a few seconds, or your vehicle shuts off while driving scaring the **** out of you. You have now experienced GM's worst security system ever created. GM's security, also known as Passlock Passkey or Vats.
There are 3 parts in this system.
Normally a black resister chip in key which "communicates" to the lock cylinder. Sometimes is hidden in the plastic part of keys in new models. Same concept, might say PK1 PK2 PK3 PL or something similar to that. The newer ones work on frequency. Same thing tho.
2.The LOCK CYLINDER
Inside there are pins that read the chip in the key or the part that reads the frequency on new models. This then "communicates" to the TDM)
Theft Deterrant Module-Sometimes called the "computer" or "brain". This is the part that sends the signal (**NOTE**) to your car and allows your car to start or continue running depending on your type of system.
If any of these parts are not communicating properly, your SECURITY light will come on and shut down your vehicle. The idea being, that without the chipped key or FOB key, the vehicle wont start and cant be "hotwired" or stolen. Pretty nice when working, but these systems are flawed and the average life is 6-10 years. Every single aspect of this system is expensive to replace and can only be worked on by "authorized" GM service men with out voiding warrenty. Most garages dont even touch them and if they do,
they will sell you every part they can before "fixing" the problem/
*QUICK FIX TRICKS*
Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down with use and so do the keys causing the security to fail.
(if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my Buick for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, I'm sorry I have no quick fix...
Well since the lifespan of these systems are so short, and are extremely expensive to fix, and in my opinion far worse of a threat to owners than theives, my only perminant suggestion is to eliminate it completely. After a year of 10 minute tricks and a "key bypass" that lasted 2 months and stranded me out of state, ($375 tow charge) i have only one good suggestion. After surfing the web for hours thru forums and websites i came across http://newrockies.com/passkey to the starter or injectors and so on. Thus eliminating the ENTIRE system completely. I came upon a fork in my road. A TDM for $600 in my $1000 car or the $200 bypass. Or throw my car away. Lets say i now drive a Buick with the chip ripped out of the key and the TDM sitting in my glovebox for show
and tell. If you have any questions or anything else. Comment on this post
and i'll get an E-mail to reply to you. If you do choose to buy the bypass,
i have pictures of what a TDM looks like and will definately help you when
installing the newrockies bypass. Good luck
Here is a list of known effected cars that can be fixed with the
newrockies bypass. This is the same list from the site and updates
2003-2007 Hummer H2
1994-2003 Grand Prix
1996-2005 Grand AM
1994-1998 Trans Sports
1996-2002 Trans Am
1991-1996 Park Avenue / Ultra
1991-1996 Roadmaster Estate Wagon
1982-1990 Electra (all models)
1991-1993 Delta 88
1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
1991-1996 Custom Cruiser
1995-2005 Monte Carlo
1994-1996 Caprice/Caprice Wagon
1995-1996 Impala SS
1997-2005 Malibu Classic
1985-1996 Fleetwood Brougham
1994-1995 Deville Concours
1994-1995 ElDorado Touring
Posted on Mar 29, 2011
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