Question about 1998 Pontiac Sunfire
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: sputtering 98 sunfire
********There's 4 things an engine needs, Air Spark Fuel and a brain to
tell them when to do which. If everything seems fine, fuel injectors
are fine (right resistance), have spark, and your air filter isn't
black, then call a dealership, (DO NOT go there, just call) give them
your VIN number and ask if the
recall has been done yet on the PCM gasket and if there are any other
free recalls that need to be done. This car and the cavalier had a
bad gasket on the PCM casing, allowing water to get in and destroy the
main computer. Screws everything up and puts most of these cars in the
junkyard long before 200k miles. Simple fix though, new computer, new
connectors. It's located underneath the passenger headlight, the
stupidest place to put it, so puddles kill the car and make it so it
will sputter and eventually die. EVEN IF THE DEALERSHIP SAYS IT'S BEEN
DONE, VISUALLY CHECK THIS!!!!! After I paid a dealership to do $400
worth of "general electrical work" that still didn't fix the problem, I
researched it myself and found that even though the recall had been
done, the guy botched the job and water still got in. SPUTTERING AND
THEN DEAD. Sound Familiar?
Air Spark Fuel and Brain
First make sure your Air filter is clean, and that it is able to **** air into the airbox. If leaves clog the air intake cause it's near the ground, no air, no combustion. Take off the cover to the air filter, check the air filter, if it's black at all, change it, tan-light brown can stay a little longer. Leave it on the top part of the air box and try starting the car, so that the air that gets sucked in goes through the filter but doesn't come from the air box, just the ambient air around the engine compartment. If it runs without being contained in the filter housing, then you either have critters, a critter nest, or you sucked up a bunch of leaves that are blocking the air flow. Compressed air, have fun with it. Getting air? Good, now is it getting spark.
What you want to do is check if there's spark at all 4 plugs. You can go to the auto parts store and pick up a spark plug tester that plugs into the wires and clips to the engine and allows you to see the spark, or you can do it the fun way. Remove one by one, clean em off with a rag and test them by pressing the threaded side of them (obviously don't touch the metal, use the wires to hold em) to the engine block for a ground. Have someone try to turn it over for just a second, if it turns twice, but you don't get a spark, verify it by doing it again. If they're not firing, replace plugs and wires, try starting it. Test the cam and crankshaft sensors and last the ignition coil-packs. If this is the 2.2, they're on the back of the engine and accessible from underneath.
If the plugs fire, great, now check the fuel. Get out of the car, take the gas cap off, and put your ear to the hole while someone turns the key on, without starting it, for 3 seconds then turns it off a couple times. If you can hear the whirring sound, good, if not, check the fuel pump, fuel filter, relays and fuses. Now the injectors.
Time for the voltage meter! Get a voltage meter that measures Ohms, (symbol of a horseshoe) which is the resistance through something. Unplug the injector, touch the two posts inside the injector with the ohmmeter, and see what it says for each one. If the injectors don't have the right resistance, they're bad and need to be replaced.
Here's the specs...
For 2.2L OHV engines:
1995 - 11.6 to 12.4 Ohms
96&97 - 11.8 to 12.6 Ohms
98 to 2000 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
01 to 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.2L OHC engines:
2002+ - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.3L (1995) and 2.4L OHC engines:
1995 (2.3L) - 1.95 to 2.15 Ohms
1996 to 98 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
99 & 2000 - 11.4 to 12.6 Ohms
01 and 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms
If they give the right readings, test the connectors to the fuel injectors with a NOID Light, available to buy or rent from most auto parts stores to see if the injectors are getting the signal to fire. If they aren't, the NOID Light won't flash and there's a problem with your computer or the link to it. Visually check the PCM again and connectors for corrosion. Once again, there was a recall on the PCM housing that KILLS MOST OF THESE CARS. . Good Luck.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
Find your computer and do a tap test on it. start it up and tap the outside of it gently with a screwdriver handle if it changes the way it runs you need to replace it.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
you need to check the fuel pressure at the reed valve with a fuel pressure gauge,it needs to be at least 55psi of fuel pressure to go through injectors.
Posted on Jan 20, 2010
check the fuel pressure at the reed valve on the fuel rail,it needs at least 55psi of fuel to push through injectors and start up.
Posted on Jan 20, 2010
SOURCE: no start
You could try resetting the computer if you havent done so already. The car maybe in lockout mode. Try turning your car over….leave the ignition on. Wait exactly 10 min. Then try turning over again….again leave the key on. Wait exactly 10 min and do it a third time….this time the car should start…maybe run a lil rough while it relearns the processes of your vehicle again. It is important to wait the exact 10 min each time. You will probably need a battery charger or a set of jumper cables because if your car goes low during this process it will not work. Good luck and I hope this works. The issues are because he car has to relearn how your firing and when the injectors need to operate(in a nut shell).
Posted on Apr 20, 2010
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