Question about Nissan Altima
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2008 toyota avalon dead batery
There sounds to be a problem with your alternator. If the car went dead every few hours or week I'd say its the battery. But if the car lasts 3 months between problems, then you're battery is a champ despite fighting a losing battle. Do you ever take long trips that coincide with this problem? If your battery isn't recharging then it could drain to dead on a longer trip. There could also be an electrical problem like a bad ground that only shorts bad every once in a while. Read the voltage when the battery is connected to the car with everything off and then again when the battery is disconnected from the car. Also, have you had the alternator checked? Have you inspected the engine for bad grounds? Have you tried buying one of those battery saver devices? Hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
SOURCE: Car won't start
Try cleaning the battery cables. If the solenoid for the starter is handy, try jumping the solenoid post to the starter and have the key turned on or it will never start.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
its most likely your alternator. remove it from your vehicle and take it to auto zone and have it tested. they do not charge you for testing it.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
Charge your battery to full charge, next if you have a test light hook up the negative cable to the battery then with the test light touch one end to the positive battery cable and one to the positive post, is the light on? if yes is it bright? if yes Check your glove box and remove the glove box light check the light again, is it still bright? then check the rear cargo lamp and see if it's on if not, remove the bulb anyway and check the light one more time. if the light is still bright disconnect the light from the positive cable and the battery and then disconnect the positive wire to the alternator once it is disconnected do the light test again. Hook light to post and to the positive cable, is the light still bright? if no It's the alternator diode trio regulator Bridge, if it's still bright hook up the alternator wire again and then with the hood up and the hood light disconnected or the bulb pulled, locate the fuse panel and remove one fuse at a time, while you watch the light be sure to have the bulb out of the dome light so it does not give you a false reading. Now pull one fuse at a time if the light goes out thats where you have a problem on that circuit, on the fuse panel lid it will have it marked as what it is you can let me know what circuit it is and I can tell you how to check that circuit or if you prefer you can go to http://www.alldatadiy.com and buy a subscription for your car and it will have all the test and wiring information you want.
If you find the alternator is the culprit it could even be the brushes have fallen out one side or the other and is shorting if the battery is fully charged take it to auto zone and they can test the alternator output, if it does not put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts and 60 or 90 amps and 900 RPMS you know the alternator is bad just buy a replacement because rebuilding your alternator would cost as much buying a new or rebuilt alternator that has had everything done to it.
Now for the check engine light while your at auto zone you can have them pull the codes for your computer and that will help give you an ideal if the two problems are related. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts the check engine light will come on because the computer is detecting low voltage if you run it on low voltage for very long you may burn out the computer. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix-ya
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time and all the great advise. I changed the alt. and have had no problems thus far. "
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