Question about 1994 Chevrolet Beretta
The line on the assembly wont clear the brake booster to remove it from the car
Drop the Engine Cradle and you will gain access to the hose to get it loose.
Posted on Feb 13, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
remove master cly. from booster. then under dash remove clip & pin from brake pedal . pull carpet down remove 4 nuts . pull off booster..
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
you don't need to remove the whole rack but do need a special tool called inner tie rod tool. can be bought or borrowed form most auto parts stores. first remove wheel. next loosen the jam nut on inner tie rod at the end of outer tie rod. remove cotter pin and nut on outer. use seperator or pickle fork to seperate outer from knuckle. then remove the clamps on boot and remove. then take tie rod tool and find the right size end and turn with 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. it will turn hard at first cause of it being staked on to the threads. when it is off install new part with loc-tite on threads and tighten. when tight crimp inner flanges with either plier or hammer and punch to the rack. install in reverse order. remember to measure distance from clamp on outer side of boot to jam nut so you can get the alignment close until you get to shop for alignment.
Posted on May 05, 2009
To start: Make sure the steering shaft and or wheel is not turned during this repair =|= You can damage the air bag system coil. Put the key in and lock the wheel or use a seat-belt and tie off the wheel so it will not turn. Take the battery loose. check your radio for any codes to reset it after finished or turn off the lockout before you disconnect the battery. If you have a 3.4 DOHC engine remove the air cleaner and duct work. You will have to jack up the front of the car and make it secure with good supports and locking the rear wheels, You will be under the car so - be safe, be sure, be safe. You have to remove the front tire/wheels and your jack stands have to be behind the front sub-frame, you can not use the sub-frame for support during this job. Set the wheel straight ahead. Pull back the boot at the bottom of the steering column shaft, mark the coupler and steering input shaft. If you have the 3.4L DOHC remove the right side engine splash shield, and the exhaust pipe / catalytic converter assembly . Separate the tie-rods ends from the steering arms. support the rear of the sub-frame with a jack giving room to access the rear most part of the sub-frame. Remove the rear sub-frame bolts, loosen the front bolts Do Not Remove them!!! lower the rear approx 5 inches DO NOT LOWER TO MUCH YOU CAN DAMAGE SOME ENGINE COMPONENTS. Remove the heat shield form the steering gear. Take any pipe or hoses loose form support clips on the body. You will need a drain pan to catch any fluid that drains out. Using a flare nut wrench take loose the pressure and return lines from the gear. Plug the lines to stop fluid from draining out of the lines. Remove the gear retaining nuts and bolts. Pull the gear out of the supports move it forward and detach the steering coupler from the steering shaft. Support the gear and it comes out the left side wheel opening. To reinstall pass the new gear through the left wheel opening and place it in position in the mounts reinstall the shaft coupler and the bolts/nuts in the supports. reattach the lines, the heat shield, and if you can find them you should use new sub-frame bolts, run the rear in first and then the front, one at the time and torque the bolts to 133 ft-lbs. Reconnect the tie rods to the steering arms. Reinstall the exhaust system now. Check the wheel center using the marks made on the shaft, be sure the coupler is seated before you tighten the pinch bolt. Reinstall the front wheels, lower the car off the stands. Reconnect the battery. Fill the power steering pump to the recommended level start up the car and ck for leaks, have the alignment checked per a tire / alignment shop.
Posted on Dec 22, 2009
SOURCE: replace rack and pinion
get it as high off the ground as possible (lift if possible) disconect lines tierod ends and pull all bolts holding it on and it sould just slip out of the wheel well
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
Bear with me on this. It's a relatively simple clip (once you know how to remove them) but somewhat difficult to explain properly via the internet. But here goes. It may help if you draw it like this:
On a piece of paper draw a half inch line (don't lift the pencil/pen) up to down. Go right an inch and a half, down 1/16, left 1 1/4, down 1/8. Place the eraser end of the pencil to right of the 1/8 up against the 1 1/4. Got it?
Should form a type of a "T". Insert a flat screwdriver between the top of the pencil and the clip. If you twist the screwdriver it will lift the 1/8 part of the clip over the eraser permitting you to slide the clip off the shaft.
All I could think of...Hope that helps. Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Apr 03, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Jul 10, 2015 | 2002 Buick Rendezvous
Aug 30, 2013 | 2000 Ford Mustang
Oct 14, 2010 | 2001 Ford Windstar
Oct 13, 2010 | 1996 Dodge Intrepid
Sep 23, 2010 | 1997 Eagle Vision
Sep 05, 2010 | 1997 Dodge Intrepid
Aug 27, 2010 | 2000 Ford Windstar
Mar 28, 2009 | 1997 Chrysler Concorde
34 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!