Question about Daihatsu Cars & Trucks
The diagnostic light is reading the pre lambda sensor but i have had this replaced previously and the engine malfunction light has remained on still citing this sensor. So, am reluctant to trust the machine diagnostic and pay for yet another lambda sensor. I am wondering if it would be better to ask the garage to change the air flow sensor instead? It also needs a new exhaust but they tell me that won't fix the emissions fault alone. They don't have a wiring diagram so can't fault find that way.
First thing I would do is this... Get a can of SEA FOAM and add it to your Fuel. Then drive 100 Miles and have it retested. 90% sure it will pass after cleaning the system.
Posted on Feb 13, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes, that sounds correct to be calibrated.and probably is what is causing your problem. Mass air flow sensors hardly ever go bad. They get dirty and set a code. Garages will try to sell you one when you can clean it with a throttle body cleaner. If you have your old one, clean it and put it back on, try it to see if it works better.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
SOURCE: Emission test failed.
daves944 is dead right . you could try thrashing the ars of it just befor it go in again most mot places will do it for you if you ask them ,, but be warned if it go bang witch it should not its not ther fault,,,, it has worked for me more then once
Posted on May 04, 2009
I'd probably trying back-testing through the ignition circuit to see if you're getting power to your spark plugs, then the leads and so on...
Here's a quick check I use to cover the most common starting problems - however a faulty immobiliser is definitely a possibly (which isn't covered by this quick list)
1. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter - you should have 12.5V or so across the terminals - any less than about 11.8 and you should think about a new battery.
2. Check that you're getting power from the ignition switch to the solenoid. The light-dimming check should help you out on this one, however, we'll make doubly sure. Locate your starter motor and the solenoid (the solenoid will be wired to the starter motor - the circuit is basically battery, ignition key switch (and immobiliser in this case), solenoid and starter motor). Disconnect the ignition cable from the solenoid (this is the heavier cable) and put a multimeter from it to ground (somewhere metal on the chassis). Get someone to turn the key to ON and check for 12V at the ignition cable. (Always put the car in neutral and the parking brake on etc...). If you don't get 12V here you've got a connectivity problem and need to trace your wiring back to your ignition switch and from there to the battery and try to find a poor connection or potential short - from the clicking sound this problem seems unlikely.
3. Now we want to test the starter motor to ensure it's OK. To do this, we need a large screwdriver with an nicely insulated handle. On the SOLENOID, you'll find to large electrical post connectors. Short across these with the screwdriver - be careful to only touch the handle or you're going to think someone has just kicked you in the groin...You should get some serious sparks and hear your starter motor whirring (don't let it run too long or you'll flatten your battery and possibly damage the starter motor). If your starter motor makes any nasty grinding kinds of noises, you need to replace or rebuild it. If it doesn't move, you need to replace it (or get it rebuilt). Sometimes you can 'rock' the car in gear to persuade the starter motor to move slightly and it will then turn for you.
4. If none of the other problem have suggested a component at fault, you probably have a faulty or 'sticky' solenoid. To check this, find which of the two heavy post connectors is connected to the starter motor. Place one probe of the multimeter in this wire and ground the other (metal on the chassis). Have someone turn the key (neutral and parking brake) and check the voltage. You should read 12V and hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid (this is the solenoid activating and sending power to the starter motor). If you're getting a low voltage and not hearing a clunk your solenoid is probably on it's way out and needs to be replaced. A quick fix that often works is to have your helper try to start the car and give the solenoid a bit of a tap with a rubber mallet. This might jar the mechanism loose and give the electromagnet a chance to pull it into the connecting position and power your starter motor.
Having a bit of a look through these things might point out a different problem in your ignition circuit - however the immobiliser is definitely a possibility and a place to start.
Hope this helps, Sherwin
Posted on Jan 18, 2010
p0134 is the upstream 02 sensor staying center and will cause a drivability problem. you don't need to replace both of them, the one at fault is the upstream one, mounted on the exhaust manifold.I do it under the vehicle while on a lift, if you can see it from behind the engine and access it, just remove it. spray it down with some penetrating liquid before attempting to remove it
Posted on Oct 20, 2011
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