Question about 2005 Subaru Outback
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the o2 sensors are locted in the exhaust system. upstream is before cat converter, downstream is after cat converter.
Posted on Nov 22, 2008
If your havinf any trouble I suggest you can pick up a repair manual from any part store and if you feel like spending around $26 you can get alldata online for you car for a year I just did it for some wiring diagrams and it helped me out bigtime good luck
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
The starter is separate from the soleniod; It could be a part called the bendix on the starter itself. If you can remove it, take it to a auto parts store- they will check it for free.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
Subaru's are horizontally opposed engines. This means that the cylinder heads are actually pointed out toward the wheels.
If you look out close to where the engine and the inner fender meet, just a little in going back to the center, you will find two on each side on the 2.5 non-turbo. These have plug wires going to them.
On a turbo, the plugs are actually right in the side of the engine, going into the tops of the cylinder heads below the ignition coils which you remove first, to get to them. The same is true with the 3.0 engine.
Posted on May 02, 2009
Finding/Replacing 1998 Legacy StarterTo find the starter on any car, follow the heavy lead from the positive terminal on the battery. A dedicated cable will connect to the starter.
The starter is at the back of the engine compartment, driver's side, accessible from the top.
Begin by unhooking the negative lead of the battery; the positive supply to the starter is unswitched and will be hot otherwise.
There are two main bolts holding the starter in place. Remove the positive cable from the lug by removing the nut and washer, and pull off the ignition switch lead (these are next to each other on the upper side). The ground cable is attached to a bracket that is held on by the upper attachment bolt. When you remove the upper bolt the cable and bracket will be free. Leave bracket attached to the ground strap.
The upper bolt is 14mm, the lower nut (which goes on a stud that stays in place) is 17mm. You will need several different size socket-wrench extensions (I used two 3" extensions on bottom and one on top) to get in a position to work. (It would, at minimum, take a lot of patience to do this with a wrench.) The order in which the bolt and nut are removed doesn't appear to be important.
The nut on the underside can't be seen from above, so must be done "blind." Look at the replacement starter to see where the nut will be, and what the shape of the casing is around it. Small hands are an advantage here.
There's not a lot of room to work, and it's hard to get enough leverage, so you will a small length of curved metal electrical conduit very handy as a cheater bar. (Real mechanics should get a chuckle out of that.) In replacing the bolts, they really should be torqued to specifications, but I used the "pretty tight plus a half turn" approach. Hard to imagine getting a torque wrench in there, unless you happen to have a power ratchet with a torque setting - in which case, you shouldn't need any advice.
As always, get both the bolt and the nut snugged up before the final tightening. It is not necessary to worry about the alignment of the part, which is accomplished by the stud and bolt. Replace the positive cable and the ignition lead.
Check and see if you've knocked any hoses off (there are several right in the way); The last step is to replace the negative battery cable. The running lights will begin to flash when the battery is reconnected. This is normal (some sort of anti-theft thing, I think) and will stop when a button on the keyless entry is pressed.
The job will take about 30 minutes if you are skilled, perhaps 90 minutes if you're at the "oil change" level of competence. If you can't put a washer and nut on by feel, then you might get stuck in the middle of the operation
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
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