Question about 1999 Toyota Camry

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Just had axle oil leak, left front, had axle replaced, could this have been prevented or is it natural wear and tear?

Is a axle oil leak normal wear and tear?

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  • Toyota Master
  • 1,098 Answers

Hi Dolores ! by replacing the axle shaft have you changed also the oil seal on the gear box or not? If not surely is the old oil seal and is leaking.

Posted on Jan 25, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Wheel bearings, front & rear struts

hi i would get a second opinion toyotas like hondas are very reliable to have to replace one fine but the fronts as well if you drive like an idiot then maybe but i dought it very much [and no its not normall wear and tear ] they are built to last and are not common faults best of luck yates210456

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

  • 713 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Camry, 150k. Engine bearings showing

no they can be replaced if crank is not scarred. you will need to mike the crank so you know what size to get and if the crank is still in spec might need to take to machine shop and have it turned. kind of expensive can probably find another used motor with descent miles on it for about $700-$900 and pay a few hundred to have it swapped.

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

wildman554
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 100 series land cruiser manual turbo diesel. The left hand side rear axle oil seal has been replaced 3 time but it continues to leak oil. Now the front seal on the diff near the universal joint i

sounds like something is ruining that boot. check the surrounding area of the boot, check to make sure its installed right. as for the front your ging to have to just replace that seal.

Posted on Dec 03, 2012

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Clucking noise while drive and moving the steering wheel From side to side


CV Axle Replacement. Have them inspected and replace bad one(s). If inspecting yourself. Look under car at front axles coming from the transmission. Inspect the two rubber boots on each side, Maybe be more than two if extended axle. If boots are cracked. split and leaking grease, it likely has been this way for some time. Axles in that condition need to be replaced. This is a normal wear and tear part (like tires and brakes) and typically does not indicate something caused them to fail.

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CV joint replacement is necessary. Quick check...commonly if you look under the car at the axles (both sides) going to the front wheels, you will see rubber boots covering the CV joints (2 on each side) that will be cracked or split open. These dry out or wear and will leak out all the lubricant. These are normal wear and tear parts like brakes. Most repair shops will check them for free. Typically about $150 each side by a shop or about $50 each side for DIY'r. Best of luck in resolving this problem.

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Grinding noise upon turning is normally one of two issues. First, and most often, it is caused by a worn out outer CV joint. If your vehicle has more than 50000 miles on it and the axle shafts have never been replaced, this is what I would suspect first. In addition, CV noise will be louder when turning under power (gas pedal pressed) than when coasting into a turn. The other possibility is a front wheel bearing assembly. These are not as common, but do wear out as well. The wheel bearings will usually make no noise when going straight, but will make noise upon even the slightest side to side turn. CVs on the other hand, usually grind only when going into corners or making left or right turns. If you suspect a CV joint, but don't have high mileage, you could have a torn CV boot that resulted in the grease that lubricates the joint being depleted and causing the noise. You can inspect the out boots visually for tears....grease leaking out usually leaves telltale spatters in the wheel wells also. Replacement of the CV joint can be done, but it is usually cheaper to replace the entire axle shaft as they are serviced as a unit.

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Hi, The front end of my mazda clunks real bad and loud, while turning the wheel at any speed. Both directions. Help!


Check boots on CV joints for tears. Torn boots result in CV wearing out. The boots are at each end of the axles going from your transmission to the front wheels. The normal repair is to replace axles. Both can be more carefully inspected on a lift before deciding if only one or both axles should be replaced. Any questions, please reply. I'm going to bed now, but will answer any replies tomorrow.

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Oil leak in my 97 ford f 250 van?


truthfully , wear and tear. rubber gaskets can not last forever, they are exposed to extreme conditions (weather) and naturally occur over time.
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1 Answer

How often do I need to service a BMW 123d?


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Here are your service intervals:

NOTE Besides Oil changes there are inspection intervals I & II

http://www.savagebmw.com/Service/content_service_Intervals.htm

Inspection interval I

BMW Inspection I (return to top) Undercarriage
  • Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
  • Check transmission for leaks.
  • Check rear axle for leaks.
  • Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
  • Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
  • Check power steering system for leaks.
  • Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
  • Examine brake disc surfaces.
  • Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
  • Grease wheel center hubs.
  • Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
  • Check front control arm bushing for wear.
  • Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
  • Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
  • Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
  • Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
Engine Compartment
  • Read out diagnostic system
  • Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
  • Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
  • Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
  • Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
  • Check air conditioner for operation.
  • Reset Service Indicator.
Body/Electrical Equipment
  • Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
  • Perform batter load test.
  • Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
  • Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
  • Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
  • Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
  • Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
  • Check condition and function of safety belts.
  • Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
  • Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
  • Check central locking/double lock.
  • Replace microfilter or Acc. Cabin Filter.
  • Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
  • Check rear view mirrors
  • Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.
Final Inspection
  • Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission


Inspection interval II
BMW Inspection II (return to top) Undercarriage
  • Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
  • Check transmission for leaks.
  • Check rear axle for leaks.
  • Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
  • Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
  • Check power steering system for leaks.
  • Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
  • Examine brake disc surfaces.
  • Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
  • Grease wheel center hubs.
  • Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
  • Check front control arm bushing for wear.
  • Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
  • Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
  • Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
  • Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
  • Check thickness of parking brake linings.
  • Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
  • Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.
Engine Compartment
  • Read out diagnostic system
  • Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
  • Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
  • Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
  • Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
  • Check air conditioner for operation.
  • Reset Service Indicator.
  • Replace spark plugs (as applicable by year and model)
  • Replace intake air cleaner element.
Body/Electrical Equipment
  • Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
  • Perform batter load test.
  • Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
  • Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
  • Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
  • Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
  • Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
  • Check condition and function of safety belts.
  • Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
  • Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
  • Check central locking/double lock.
  • Replace microfilter or Acc Cabin Filter.
  • Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
  • Check rear view mirrors
  • Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.
Final Inspection
  • Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission

Service indicator lights if installed:

http://www.savagebmw.com/Service/content_service_IntervalsLED.htm

That should just about cover the works other than failures.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

Feb 16, 2010 | 2008 BMW 1 Series

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Rear brake drum leaking on my 1989 ford bronco 2 y did it happen and how do u fix it


The drum isn't leaking, either the wheel cylinder is leaking or the line is leaking

Oct 07, 2009 | 1989 Ford Bronco II

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Wheel bearings, front & rear struts


In my humble opinion, I would say this is not normal wear and tear. If it were me I would get a 2nd opinion. I have been driving for over 40 years and I do not remember the last time I had to replace a wheel bearing. I'm not saying it can't happen but another opinion would be worth the nominal cost.

And if the answer is a strong "it's not needed" I would find another mechanic than the one that gave you the estimate

Hope this helps Loringh

Oct 19, 2008 | 2004 Toyota Corolla

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