Question about Dodge Grand Caravan
I have checked all the relays and fuses, they seem to be fine but I know that I am missing something. it seems to produce heat but doesnt blow it out. the back blower works fine and sometimes the front defrost will work.
If NO heat comes out,have you checked to see if the flapper(door that opens to let heat out)opens or any obstructions????. Alberto
Posted on Feb 12, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds as if you have a bad resistor or a blowermotor going bad. if it has a bad winding in the motor jarring it my make it come back on
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
OK So, I have had to replace the blower resistor twice and its still has failed. Now its time to replace the blower motor. I have the Haynes manual for this vehicle but it seems to miss some important steps. Here's what I did, I hope it helps you. This job is given 3.5 hours on the shop book and believe me, its not a wonder why.
Tools that I used
- standard screwdrivers 6" with 1/4 blade and 8" with 1/2" blade
- 1/4 inch ratchet with 2" and 1" extensions
- 8mm socket
- 10 mm wrench
- Phillips S2
- drill with attachment for screwdrivers ( I have tendonitis)
- gooseneck extension (plastic / flexible)
Here are the instructions from the Haynes book with my comments and pictures.
One note is that the picture in section 3-8, fig 10-10 is upside down. The Actuator motor is on the bottom of the unit, looks
like a black deck of cards with a wire going to it. Wires at clipped to the housing.
2001 and later models
Step 8 - Disconnect battery negative cable - Wrench 10mm (1/2inch)
Step 9 - Partially remove instrument panel.... - remove glove compartment to access the blower and evap area. Two clips on
either side, unsnap hinges. ( remember to empty the box)
Step 10 - Disconnect pigtail from blower motor resistor. Green/Black wires
Step 11 - Remove 2 screws to remove actuator. (8mm socket) Remove wire from clips and pull down to remove the acuator. This
will buy you about 1/2 of extra space. Before you do all this, remove the side carpet trim which allows you to pull back the
carpet and the silencer padding. This will allow for some more room to pull the housing down and believe me, you'll need it!
Step 12 - Remove 2 more screws on the air intake and lower housing. I had three screws, you should see them through the
Step 13 - Remove the 3 screws at the lower intake and lower evap housing.
Step 14 - Push rubber grommet through hole in lower housing. Use large blade screwdriver.
Step 15 - Remove lower intake housing from evap housing.
This is where it gets tricky.
You can remove the lower intake housing but you need to pry it out from the recirculation door.
The bottom of the unit where the actuator was has a round spindle that clips into place with the three plastic clips.
Lightly pry the lower clips and then also pry through the hole at the connection point. Picture below.
Once you pry it will release.
You will have to jiggle this loose but it will eventually come off.
with mine the recirc door POPPED out of its top rest. I had to make sure on how to get it into this spot as it doesn't stay in this spot.
Step 16 - Push wires through the hole if you haven't done so already.
Step 17 - Move recirc door about to help you reach the three screws that hold down the motor assembly.
Step 18 - GENTLY flex the door to remove the blower motor and wheel. I moved the motor 180 to help get into a better position.
Install is reverse. Need to make sure that the recirc door moves relatively easily. The calibration below will make sure all is set properly. If it doesnt pass you'll have to recheck the position of the recirc door top spindle and cavity line up.
Step 19 - Not in the book
18. Perform the heater-NC control calibration procedure:
a. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
b. Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds.
The manual heater-A/C control Delay Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control
(ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
c. The calibration procedure should take less than three minutes to complete for the manual system, and less than twenty
seconds for the ATC system. When the LED's or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
d. If the LED's or graphics continue to flash beyond the time stated above, it indicates that the heater-A/C control system
has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use the DRBIII(R) scan tool and the appropriate
diagnostic information for further diagnosis.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
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