Socket sizes for the front spindle nut,lower ball,joints outer tie rods 2014 Honda accord V6 touring
Auto shake at speeds over 80kph, wonders all ways correcting steering wheel hear a rattle when going over bumps from front end, have had the tires balanced 6-7 times and are all ways out of balance want to check torque values on spindle nut lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends need nut sizes in mm's
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Re: socket sizes for the front spindle nut,lower...
It depends on if they have been changed before. normal size is 18mm changed is 19mm on tie rods. also check the condition of the anti-roll bar rubbers as they can cause this problem to. also check the traling arm on the steering this can do this to.
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dont forget the most common strut rod(radius rod) bushings(30 bucks) just did all on mine, front wheel bearings,lower control arm with ball joints(both) and inner tie rods.and really look at sub frame for stress cracks(recall prob)
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Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).
Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint
Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint
Front Wheel Spindle
Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link
Front Axle Assembly
Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)
Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.
Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Ball Joint Remover
Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.
Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation. NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.
NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.
To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.
Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger
tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a
CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30
and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the
center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety
tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe
placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break
the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car
and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point
must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two
jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack
stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out
the jack and move it out of the way.
Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the
hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with
the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew
the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV
joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub,
take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it
with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel
hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that
holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm.
Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and
sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a
length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud
from the spindle.
Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint
disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side
just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the
back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to
the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard
end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the
transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or
replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the
entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the
transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and
place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new
shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping
the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket.
Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and
loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by
re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and
leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud
positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry
bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel
hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut
tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into
the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking
bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car
from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.
replace the entire CV axles. Support vehicle with jackstands by frame. Remove front wheels. Remove axle nuts. Remove lower balljoint nut. Separate balljoint from nuckle by banging hard with ball peen hammer on knuckle on spindle assy. Remove outer tie-rod nut. Separate tie-rod from steering nuckle by bangin on nuckle with ball-peen hammer. Use long pry bar to hold lower control arm down while simultaneously pulling hub/spindle assembly away from vehicle and pushing axle through hub toward transaxle. Go under vehicle and pry inner cv joint away from transaxle while holding axle assembly.
Install new CV axle in reverse of the disassembly.
Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.
Remove axle nut
Remove outer tie rod nut
Leave outer tie rod nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where tie rod is mounted very hard with a large hammer (wear Saftey glasses)
The tie rod should loosen up and you remove it off spindle.
Remove lower ball joint nut
Leave nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where ball joint mounts (wear saftey glasses)
Carfully pry down the lower control arm too remove ball joint from arm.
Press in the axle towards the trans. out of the wheel bearing.
Place a piece of wood between the shock and inner fender to give yourself room to work.
Remove the three 15mm bolts that hold the wheel bearing on.
Hit wheel bearing out with hammer (wearing saftey glasses)
You may need to break a sweat on this part. Somtimes they are rusted in.
Be carfull not to damage the ABS sensor.
Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.
If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:
1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.
NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.
Remove the large nut on the end of the axle. Remove the outer tie rod end. Remove the upper spindle mount. There is a cover over the bolt. Remove the brake caliper and the lower ball joint and disconnect speed sensor if equipped. Remove spindle and pull the axle out. You may need a large flat head screw driver to pop the sxle out of the transaxle.