Question about 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited

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Replaced ignition switch now i can't get the bearings and race to stay to install clip ring so i can install the stearing wheel

No matter how many was i install clip the shaft gets loose and the race will not stay in place

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  • Jeep Master
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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

leetamara
  • 702 Answers

SOURCE: REPLACE 97 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE REAR WHEEL BEARINGS

What you do is push the axle inboard in which gives you access to the clip and use a magnate to remove the clip.

Posted on Jun 30, 2008

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: Rear wheel bearing/axle problem

1. There should be a metal tag on the diff cover, held on by one of the cover bolts. This will help you ID the unit. If it's gone then someone will have to look at it that knows these rears. If the axle surface that is scored rides on the bearing surfaces, is scored then it needs to be replaced. 2. the easiest way to know if you got all parts of the old bearing out is to look at a new bearing. 3. I can't remember the manufacturer (maybe sosmetal?), but there used to be a bearing setup that changes the position of the bearing & seal on the axle so it rides on an undamaged part, so you can still use the axle. Check with any local old style parts house (not one of the new fast food type places) you may get some help there.
Also... if the bearing failure was extensive, make sure you remove diff cover and clean out all debris from the gear set housing... any junk left behind can destroy pinion and side bearings!!!

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

  • 508 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 jgc limited rear end noise

If you removed the pinion and only replaced one of the bearings that was a mistake. You need to replace both at the same time. Also since it is a Dana differential you should have replace the crush sleeve also as this set the correct preload on the pinion bearings.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stearing

Common problems on these Jeeps is the track bar is bad and I've seen the three bolts that hold the steering box to the frame come loose. You can also adjust the play in the steering box, but you should only let someone that knows how to adjust a steering box do it. You didn't mention what was done to improve slightly. But you need to have the tie-rods checked and the idler arm and pitman arm. All of these components will cause "loose" steering. And whenever you replace a steering component you have to have an alignment performed or you will wear out tires like there's no tomarrow. Hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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How to replace front wheel bearing on 2003 kia sedona


Disassembly 1. Remove oil seal from front wheel hub. 2. Remove front wheel hub assembly with suitable tool.

bi6c021a.gif 3. Remove retaining ring. note_icon_eng.gif If the bearing inner race remains on wheel hub, grind a section of inner race until approximately 0.020 in (0.5 mm) remains. Remove race with a chisel.

bi6c021b.gif 4. Remove wheel bearing with suitable tool.

bi6c021c.gif note_icon_eng.gif Do not remove dust cover unless necessary. Do not reuse dust cover if removed. 5. Mark relative positions of dust cover and knuckle for proper reassembly. 6. Remove dust cover with a chisel.

ai2a023c.gif note_icon_eng.gif Do not remove wheel hub bolt unless necessary. Do not reuse wheel hub bolt if removed. 7. Remove wheel hub bolt with a press.

bi6c021d.gif Assembly 1. Press in new wheel studs. note_icon_eng.gif Front wheel hub press in either bolt turning or loosening by the torque of 108.5 lb•ft (147 N•m, 15 kg•m) shall not be premissible.

bi6c022a.gif 2. Mark new dust cover to match the removed dust cover. 3. Align mark on new dust cover with knuckle. 4. Install new dust cover with suitable tool.

bi6c022b.gif 5. Install new wheel bearing with suitable tool. 6. Install front wheel hub assembly with suitable tool.

bi6c022c.gif note_icon_eng.gif Use a new oil seal, and apply grease to seal. Install oil seal so that it is flush with knuckle. 7. Install new oil seal with SST(0K993 331 016).

bi6c022d.gif

Jan 12, 2013 | 2003 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

How to replace right front wheel bearings


What you'll need:

  1. Large adjustable wrench and Channelocks.
  2. Bearing race driver tool or various size punches.
  3. Socket and ratchet set or assorted wrenches.
  4. BFH.
  5. Lots of rags.
  6. New wheel bearings.
  7. Wheel bearing grease.
  8. New cotter pin.
  9. New grease seals.
  10. Wheel blocks.
  11. Safety glasses.
  12. A jack and a pair of jack stands.
  13. Rubber gloves (Optional)

optimuskem_0.jpg


  1. First remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove it grab it with your Channelocks and work it back and forth until it pops off. Be careful not to crush it as you remove it.
  2. Once the cap is off you will see a cotter pin, Remove the cotter pin and remove the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not have a retaining ring.
  3. Using your Channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.
  4. Now remove the outer wheel bearing and washer and lay it aside.
  5. Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle. This may be difficult, but it will come off. Don't worry about hurting the grease seal; we're going to replace it anyway.
  6. Now that the rotor or drum is off, use a suitable tool to remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.
  7. Using some of the rags wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.
  8. Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race.
When both races are out, clean the inside of the hub with some rags. Also make sure the spindle is clean as well. You can even use some carburetor cleaner to do a really good job of cleaning. From this point on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal chips inside the hub.
  1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
  2. Do the same for the other race.
  3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.
Now that everything is nice and clean, let's put the new races and bearings in.
  1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
  2. Do the same for the other race.
  3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.

  1. Now that we have the races installed and bearings packed, we can put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel bearing into it. Take the new grease seal and tap it into place, don't bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to help.
  2. Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the spindle -- too much is better than too little. If any moisture should happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.
  3. Slide the brake rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.
  4. Once it's on, grease the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it in.
  5. Place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth and then tighten the nut more by hand. This insures that the bearings are seated. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter by hand.
  6. Now tighten the nut ¼ turn, no more than 16 foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin. If you have a retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the pin. Never reuse the old cotter pin and make sure you use it.
  7. Put a small blob of grease on the inside of the dust cap and tap it into place, being careful not to crush it. Make sure it is fully seated.That's it, you're ready to roll nice and smooth!

May 06, 2011 | Geo Storm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace rear wheel bearing on 2003 hyandia sonata


Hub & Bearing Removal & Installation To Remove:
Hub bearing assembly (Typical) hyundai-08-00-6029.gif

  1. Release parking brake.
  2. Remove rear wheel assembly.
  3. Remove rear wheel speed sensor from carrier.
  4. Dismount brake caliper and support with mechanic's wire.
  5. Remove brake disc.
  6. Remove 4 axle hub mounting bolts. Special tool 09432-11000 (Typical) hyundai-08-00-6021.gif

  7. Using tool 09432-11000 (or suitable gear puller), remove tone wheel.
  8. Remove carrier.
  9. Remove stakes and remove flange nut.
  10. Support bearing outer race flange and press rear axle hub out.
  11. Using tool 09432-11000 (or suitable puller), remove inner race from axle hub.
To Install:
Hub bearing assembly (Typical) hyundai-08-00-6029.gif

  1. Apply thin coat of grease to bearing contact surface and hub.
  2. Using and appropriate tool, press bearing into hub. CAUTION
    Do not press against outer race of wheel bearing.
  3. Install flange nut and stake nut until it meets concave portion of spindle.
  4. Install carrier.
  5. Use an appropriate tool to press tone wheel.
  6. Install hub/bearing assembly with rounded portion of outer race facing up.
  7. Install 4 hub/bearing assembly bolts and rotate hub to seat bearing.
  8. Measure wheel bearing starting torque with a spring balance or equivalent device.
    • Starting torque should measure 15.9 in lb (1.8 Nm) or less
  9. Install brake disc.
  10. Mount brake caliper.
  11. Install rear wheel speed sensor to carrier.
  12. Install rear wheel assembly.
prev.gif next.gif

Oct 28, 2010 | 2001 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

How to replace the ignition on a 1991 oldsmobile cutlass cierra


If you mean the ignition lock cylinder:

Ignition Lock Cylinder CAUTION
If the car is equipped with an air bag, do not service the steering column or dashboard components. Extreme danger of air bag deployment exists even with the battery removed! Serious injury could occur. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Without Air Bag
  1. Place the ignition switch in the RUN position.
  2. Remove the lockplate, turn signal switch and buzzer switch.
  3. Remove the screw and lock cylinder. NOTE: If the screw is dropped on removal, it could fall into the column, requiring complete disassembly to retrieve the screw. To install:
  4. Rotate the cylinder clockwise to align cylinder key with the keyway in the housing.
  5. Push the lock all the way in.
  6. Install the screw. Tighten the screw to 14 inch lbs. (2 Nm) for adjustable columns and 25 inch lbs. (3 Nm) for standard columns.
With Air Bag CAUTION
Before proceeding, refer to Section 6 for information on disabling and enabling the SIR (air bag) system; otherwise, serious injury could occur.
  1. Turn the steering wheel so the vehicles wheels are pointed straight ahead.
  2. Place the ignition switch into the LOCK position to prevent undercentering of the coil assembly.
  3. Disable the SIR system. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  4. Remove the coil assembly retaining ring, then disconnect the inflatable restraint coil assembly. Let the switch hang freely if removal is not needed. To remove the coil assembly proceed.
  5. Remove the wave washer, then the shaft retaining lock ring with tool J-23653-SIR to push down on the shaft lock. Dispose of the ring, it is not reusable. Fig. 1: Special tool J-23653-SIR or equivalent is required for pushing down the shaft lock to remove the shaft ring 86818085.gif
  6. Remove the shaft lock, then disconnect the canceling cam assembly.
  7. Remove the upper bearing spring, race seat and race.
  8. Position the turn signal to the right turn (up) position.
  9. Remove the multi-function lever and hazard knob assembly. Unfasten the round washer head screw and signal switch arm, along with the turn signal switch screws.
  10. Remove the turn signal switch assembly by unfastening the connector from the bulkhead connector. Gently pull on the harness through the column and disconnect.
  11. Make sure the coil assembly does not become uncentered, this could happen if the centering spring is pushed down letting the hub rotate while the coil is removed from the steering column.
  12. Remove the inflatable restraint coil assembly with the wiring harness from the column assembly.
  13. Remove the wire protector, then attach a length of mechanics wire to the coil terminal connector to aid in reassembly. Then gently pull the wire through the column.
  14. Remove the key from the steering column lock cylinder set, then remove the buzzer switch assembly.
  15. Reinsert the key into the lock cylinder, turn it to the LOCK position.
  16. Remove the lock retaining screw, then the cylinder. To install: NOTE: Make sure all fasteners are securely seated before applying the necessary torque. If you fail to do so, component damage or malfunctioning of the steering column may occur.
  17. Install the lock cylinder assembly, insert the retaining screw, then tighten to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  18. Insert the key into the lock cylinder. Install the buzzer switch assembly. Turn the key to the LOCK position.
  19. Install the turn signal switch assembly wiring harness through the column, let the switch hang freely. Connect the wiring to the bulkhead.
  20. Insert the coil assembly wiring harness through the column letting the coil hang freely. Attach the turn signal assembly with the binding head screws. Tighten the screws to 30 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
  21. Attach the signal switch arm with the round washer head screw, tighten the screw to 20 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
  22. Install the hazard knob assembly and the multi-function lever.
  23. Install the inner race, upper bearing race seat and spring. Attach the turn signal cancelling cam assembly, apply grease for lubrication.
  24. Replace the shaft lock and install a new shaft lock retaining ring. Use tool J-23653–SIR or equivalent to push down on the shaft lock. The ring must be firmly seated in the groove on the shaft. NOTE: Set the steering shaft so that the block tooth on the race and upper shaft is at the 12 o'clock position. The wheel on the car should be straight ahead. Set the ignition switch to the LOCK position, as this will ensure no damage to the coil assembly.
  25. Install the wave washer, then attach the coil assembly, make sure it is centered correctly. Fig. 2: Centering the coil assembly is important in assembling the column assembly 86818086.gif

  26. Attach the coil assembly retaining ring, the ring must be firmly seated in the groove on the shaft.
  27. Gently pull the lower coil assembly, turn signal, and pivot (pulse) wires to remove any kinks that may be inside the steering column assembly. If you fail to do this you can damage the wiring.
  28. Complete assembling the steering column assembly.
  29. Attach the negative battery cable.
  30. Check the functions of the turn signal, make sure it cancels when turned on and the steering wheel is turned.
  31. Enable the SIR system. prev.gif next.gif

Aug 01, 2010 | 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Replacing wheel barrings


Yes it matters, you got the formula right, but I looked up your car and found too many different bearings, but , if your front front wheel has 2 bearings, one inside and one outside, most hubs have a dust seal, I didn't see one on yours, it shows a shim on the inside, then the bearing, race, hub, race, bearing, shim, lock nut, pin, don't over tighten it, and don't forget to grease it up, with the grease in your palm, pack it in there, unless you have a greaser, not a gun. Hope this helps.

Apr 15, 2010 | 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class

1 Answer

How do i replace front wheel bearings on a 1991 subaru lyale 4wd wagon ?


  1. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle, and secure in a soft-jawed vise.
  2. Drive out the hub from the steering knuckle. If the inner bearing race remains in the hub, press it out.

    NOTE Be careful not to scratch the polished area of the hub.

  3. Remove the rotor shield.
  4. Remove the inner and outer seals.
  5. Remove the snapring from the steering knuckle.
  6. Press the inner bearing race to remove the outer bearing.
  7. If equipped with ABS, remove the tone ring.
  8. Press the wheel lugs from the hub.

    NOTE To prevent deforming the hub, do not hammer the lugs out.

To install:
  1. Press new wheel lugs into the hub.
  2. If equipped, clean all foreign material from the hub and tone ring. Install the tone ring.
  3. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the plastic lock from the inner race and press a new, greased bearing into the hub by pressing the outer race.
  5. Install the snapring into its groove.
  6. Press a new outer oil seal until it contacts the bottom of the housing.
  7. Press a new inner oil seal until it contacts the circlip.
  8. Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
  9. Install the rotor shield and tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  10. Attach the hub to the steering knuckle.
  11. Press a new bearing into the hub by driving the inner race.
  12. Install the steering knuckle.
f3a705a.gif
Front axle and bearing assembly—Sedan, Coupe, Loyale, XT, Wagon and Brat

0178d6a.gif
Driving out the inner bearing assembly

87e8ff5.gif
Pressing the bearing in

Oct 19, 2009 | 1991 Subaru Loyale

1 Answer

Directions replace front wheel bearings on a 1985 nissan stanza?


996fb79.gif

NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies. NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
  3. Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
  4. Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
  5. Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
  6. Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
  7. If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
  8. Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush. NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
  9. Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
  10. Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
  11. Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
  12. Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
  13. Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.

Jun 23, 2009 | 1985 Nissan Stanza

1 Answer

Replace ignition tumbler


STEP BY STEP Please Remember to Rate Me Thank You RejakWilson




WARNING: On vehicles equipped with Airbags, disable airbag system prior to performing service procedures.



  1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
  2. Remove steering wheel as outlined under STEERING WHEEL procedure.
  3. Using a screwdriver, pry cover from housing.
  4. Using lock plate compressing No. J-23653 or equivalent, compress lock plate, and pry snap ring from groove on shaft, Fig. 5. Slowly release lock plate compressing tool, then remove tool and lock plate from shaft end.
  5. Slide canceling cam and upper bearing preload spring from end of shaft.
  6. Remove turn signal (multi-function) lever.
  7. Remove hazard warning knob retaining screw, button, spring and knob.
  8. Remove pivot arm.
  9. Wrap upper part of electrical connector with tape to prevent snagging of wires during switch removal.
  10. Remove switch retaining screws and pull switch up from column, guiding wire harness through column.
  11. Reverse procedure to install.



  1. Remove turn signal switch as outlined under TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.
  2. Remove buzzer switch and spring clip. On 1990-92 models, ignition key must be removed from lock to remove buzzer switch. On 1991-92 models, switch and spring clip are one assembly.
  3. Turn lock cylinder to Run position on 1989 models or Lock position on 1990-92 models, then remove lock cylinder retaining screw and the lock cylinder.
  4. To install, rotate lock cylinder to the stop while holding housing. Align cylinder key with keyway in housing, then push lock cylinder into housing until fully seated. Lock cylinder must be in Run position to install buzzer switch.
  5. Install lock cylinder retaining screw, then the buzzer switch, turn signal switch and steering wheel.

Aug 30, 2008 | 1989 Chevrolet Celebrity

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