Question about 2004 GMC Envoy
Was driving home and heard running water on the passenger side, looked over and it was like a water fall poring out on to the floor. The floor had already been wet for a few weeks but this was a like some one running a hose on to the floor, only lasted 2-3 seconds (probably 1/2 liter of clear water). It is usually like that after a 2-3hr drive so im wondering if it is the air conditioner causing it? it wasn't raining at the time but that could also be part of it too. The only other thing I notice is that when I take a hard right or left turn I can hear a lot of water sloshing around (around the middle of the dash area). Car doesn't have any overheating issues, A/C and heater work fine.
You should check the drain pipe for the A/C it is under the dash near the blower motor or on some cars it is on the left side near the gas pedal.
Posted on Feb 11, 2014
Sounds like the a/c drain is clogged up you need to look on the firewall near the bottom behind engine pull drain stop of and clean it out and see if that takes care of your problem .
Posted on Feb 11, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am not a certified mechanic, however I am mechanically inclined; so no promises or guaranties, these are just educated guesses.
1. Your battery issues sound as though they could have something to do with the alternator. I don't know if you have had it checked recently or not. The alternator's job is to replenish the battery's charge. The same people that checked your battery can probably check your alternator as well. This is also the most probable cause of your voltmeter's needle showing at 14 then down and again to 12.5. There is a voltage regulator inside of the alternator that is supposed to keep your voltage reading from 13.5 to 14.5.
Other suggestions: ground wires-- the alternator is not able to replenish the charge efficiently enough through old and/or corroded wires. constant short-- something such as the dome light creating an overnight draw on the battery.
The clicking sound you hear could be many different things. There are a lot of solenoids on the vehicle that click when power is presented, such as, the starter solenoid and starter relay. From here, I can not help in stating whether that is good or bad.
2. For your heater situation you may want to check the antifreeze level. Another suggestion is, on some vehicles there is a valve that can be opened or closed along the water/anifreeze line going to your heater core. If the valve is shut, then the water is just bypassing the heater core altogether. It shouldn't take more than five minutes of driving to have your vehicle at operating temp and once there it is much easier for the engine to produce heat than it is to produce cool air. One of the many benefits of physics.
3. I would not worry about the a/c light coming on. If it works don't try and fix it. The bulbs or diodes in question are usually stuck behind a lot of pulling things off.
4. Oil pressure-- there are a lot of factors invloved with what reading you are seeing through the guage. Different oil viscosities will result in differeing pressures. A lighter oil(5w30) will be easier for the engine to push around then a heavier oil(20w50). The heavier the oil the higher the pressure. Also, new oil will be harder to push around then old oil. The newer oil will have the higher pressure. Also, contaminants in the oil will have a bearing on how much oil pressure you have showing. One more that I can think of, oil filters are made differently by different companies. I think that most have check valves in them. The strength of the check valve and whether or not it has one will have an effect on the pressure. I would probably not worry about that until your numbers reach higher or lower extremities.
5. It could have been the culprit. The radiator cap is a fail-safe. It is supposed to be the first thing that goes in the event of too much pressure. fortunately it is also the cheapest thing. Just make sure you get the right pressure rating on the cap. If you get one that is rated below the manufacturer's specs then you will continually be replacing it. (theoretically, depending on driving habits). If you get a cap that is rated above manufacturer's specs then the spring inside the cap may be stronger than your radiator or hoses or waterpump and they instead of the 6 dollar cap will be the first to go.
6. I won't be much help to you on this issue. The only thing I can think of is the transmitter may just be getting weak and may need to be replaced.
I hope this helps
Posted on May 10, 2009
If this happens when you are idle, and then you get hot air as you drive, most likely you have low coolant and it only cycles as you drive. Get approved dextrom gmc coolat and cap off your coolant it is most likely low.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
2 possibilities. - Possible heater core leak - does it smell like anti freeze/coolant or windshield draining into cabin area.
Posted on Mar 29, 2011
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