Question about Chevrolet Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: head gasket blown
there are many was a head gasket can blow . sometimes they just leak to the outside sometimes they leak to the coolant and then it blows out your antifreeze. if you have a blown head gasket you will see it when you pull the head. and yes you should hace the head checked at a machine shop and install with a new head set never reuse a gasket .
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
Overheating could be a combo of many thing's.If your thermostat is stuck you will have no circulation which will cause overheating.Also if your eng. has alot of miles your water pump may be in need of replacement.Listen for your radiator fan motor and be sure that's working and also check to see if you radiator is good.If your loosing antifreeze because of a headgasket you will see a white cloud out of the exhuast because it is burning it and sometimes you also get a little in your eng.oil.Using a pressure tester on your coolant system will help to diognos the problem,if you have a leak some where it will not hold pressure.Sign,s of a bad waterpump are poor circulation and a antifreeze leak from a vent on the waterpump.Be sure the eng. is cool before working on it.Hope this was helpfull.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
First, if your car still runs, pull the fuel pump relay, and start your car, letting it run until it dies. This will depressurize the fuel system. Then you must support the fuel tank, and take loose the straps that hold it up. Slowly lower the tank until you can unhook the tank filler hose and overflow hose by taking the clamps off and sliding the hoses off. lower it some more, and unhook the fuel lines; they require you to insert a special tool around the edge of the connection, however this can be improvised with screwdrivers or a piece of plastic or metal bent into a C shape. Next unhook the wire connection. Once you get it down, it's easiest to empty as much fuel as you can; as this will help you get it back into place. The fuel pump is inside the tank, which locks into place with a 1/8th turn. You will need a hammer and a brass punch for this job, as it needs to be tapped around to unlock. It will then lift out. Compare the two pump assemblies. The inside parts can be slightly different, but ensure that the fuel lines are IDENTICAL and the wire connection is IDENTICAL. The new one will come with a new silicone seal. Ensure that you don't put the new one in in such a way as the float doesn't bind, otherwise you'll be doing this procedure again if you don't like guessing how much gas you have. This can be a challenge to wrestle with putting the new one in, as you have to push it down to compress the new seal, and turn it to lock it. Once you get it started, you can let up and use the hammer and punch again to tighten it the rest of the way. Next, put it back together just as you took it apart, and don't forget to hook up the wires, hoses, and fuel lines. No tools required for the fuel lines, they just snap together. Once everything's tight and hooked up, put gas back in it, and if you haven't already, put the fuel pump relay back in. This you can do as soon as the car dies, and is completely optional if the car won't run at all. You are now ready to start it up, but turn the ignition on to the run position, wait a few seconds for the pump to pressurize, and then start it. Have fun, and feel free to ask any questions should you have any.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
for the 2.2L OHV:
(pully 8 4 1 5 9 <-- long bolts @ 63Nm (46ft/lb)
side ) 7 3 2 6 10 <-- short bolts / 10 is the stud @ 58Nm (43ft/lb)
for the 2.4l dohc are as follows:
(pully 9 3 1 5 7
side) 10 6 2 4 8
bolts 1-8 torqued to 65Nm (40ft/lb)
bolts 9-10 torqued to 40Nm (30ft/lb)
then (either engine) give each an additional 90° (¼) turn
it's best to do the tightening in stages, you don't want to go completely tight on the first pass or there will problems and you'll get to do it all over again
Posted on May 24, 2010
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