Question about 2000 Ford Focus

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Seems like small ring finger size gascket has vacume leek

Air seems to be escaping from drivers side of exhaust manifold

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  • Expert
  • 325 Answers

Need more info what pipe? is it exhaust or vacumn? need to be clearer on area.

Posted on Mar 11, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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c17hydro
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SOURCE: siezed exhaust manifold bolts

Get brake fluid or transmission fuild on them. Let it set for up to an hour...try to break them loose...put more fluid on it...tighten them wait about ten minutes...break them loose....this works...just don't start the vehicle and cook off the fluid.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

SOURCE: I have an exhaust leak in my 98 ford ranger 3.0

Have a smoke machine used on the exhaust system

If your not familiar with one,they were designed for finding EVAP Leaks,and can be used for lots of things.

A muffer shop with no smoke. That is Fired Flintstone Repair

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 ford escape exhaust manifold torque specs?

2b507d0.jpg

Fig. Left side exhaust manifold bolt torque sequence-3.0L engine


22ac5ae.jpg

Fig. Right side exhaust manifold bolt torque sequence-3.0L engine

Both cases, exhaust manifold and new gasket, torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

Good luck (remember to rate this answer).

Posted on Oct 28, 2010

radar001
  • 1051 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove exhaust manifold

You should be able to remove it without removing the mounts. You can get detailed instructions by registering (for free) at www.autozone.com Your registration gives you access to several DIY repair manuals.

Posted on Dec 21, 2010

pctech1
  • 1940 Answers

SOURCE: my ford 2002 escape runs rough. misfire on

Six separate ignition coils:

  • are mounted directly above each spark plug.
  • are controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) for correct firing sequence.
Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor:
NOTE: Initial engine ignition timing is set at 10 degrees ± 2 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) and is not adjustable.
  • is a variable reluctance sensor triggered by a 36-minus-1 tooth trigger pulse wheel located on the crankshaft located inside the engine front cover.
The PCM uses this information to determine ignition coil turn ON and turn OFF times and misfire detection.

The Misfire Detection Monitor is an on-board strategy designed to monitor engine misfire and identify the specific cylinder in which the misfire has occurred. Misfire is defined as lack of combustion in a cylinder due to absence of spark, poor fuel metering, poor compression, or any other cause. The Misfire Detection Monitor will be enabled only when certain base engine conditions are first satisfied. Input from the ECT or CHT, MAF and CKP sensors is required to enable the monitor. The Misfire Detection Monitor is also performed during on demand self-test.

The PCM synchronized ignition spark is based on information received from the CKP sensor. The CKP signal generated is also the main input used in determining cylinder misfire.
The input signal generated by the CKP sensor is derived by sensing the passage of teeth from the crankshaft position wheel mounted on the end of the crankshaft.
The input signal to the PCM is then used to calculate the time between CKP edges and also crankshaft rotational velocity and acceleration. By comparing the accelerations of each cylinder event, the power loss of each cylinder is determined. When the power loss of a particular cylinder is sufficiently less than a calibrated value and other criteria is met, then the suspect cylinder is determined to have misfired.

Misfire type A:
  • Upon detection of a Misfire type A (200 revolutions) which would cause catalyst damage, the MIL will blink once per second during the actual misfire, and a DTC will be stored.
Misfire type B:
  • Upon detection of a Misfire type B (1000 revolutions) which will exceed the emissions threshold or cause a vehicle to fail an inspection and maintenance tailpipe emissions test, the MIL will illuminate and a DTC will be stored.
The DTC associated with multiple cylinder misfire for a Type A or Type B misfire is DTC P0300.

The DTCs associated with an individual cylinder misfire for a Type A or Type B misfire are DTCs P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, P0309 and P0310.

When the coil is fired by the PCM, spark is delivered through the matched pair towers to their respective spark plugs (in this case, Cylinder 2 & 6 are matched). The spark plugs are fired simultaneously and are paired so that as one fires on the compression stroke, the other spark plug fires on the exhaust stroke. The next time the coil is fired the situation is reversed. The next pair of spark plugs fire according to the engine firing order.

Since there is only a misfire being detected on the Cylinder 6, I would recommend replacing the Coil On Plug for Cylinder 6 and check the wiring for damage for Cylinder 6.

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

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I agree with the previous answer that this a very time consuming job. It took me 2+ hours. I would correct a couple of statements in his answer. He refers to reaching around and behind an exhaust manifold while changing the plugs, but actually if you are working from above the engine (not below) you will be reaching around and behind the intake manifold (not exhaust) during this process. <br /> As he said, the front 3 are very easy - just remove the plastic cover plate and the coils are visible - remove one short bolt, pull the coil off, and using a long extension and a spark plug socket with a rubber insert you can remove the plugs and replace with new ones. <br /> The back 3 are very, very difficult. I did look from underneath the <a href="http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_spark_plugs_in_a_2002_Toyota_Highlander#">car</a> and I don't see any way to get to them even if the exhaust manifold was removed. I do believe the best way is from the top. As the previous answer related room to maneuver wrenches and your hands / fingers is very limited. I did remove a couple of minor brackets and hoses and the cruise control wire to get a little more room. Of course, as with the front, you have to remove each individual coil. Also - I believe two tools are critical. First - a small size "stubby" ratchet with a flexible head. You CAN use this type of small flexible ratchet to do the removal and install instead of all finger movement. Second - you need a number of small extensions.... in the 1" - 4" range... why??? because the rear plugs are also "deep" but there is no room to feed a single long extension down between the firewall and the engine head. So - you have to feed the spark plug socket and one short extension, and then feed in another one, and then a 3rd one if necessary until you get enough length to connect the socket to the plug, and the top extension to the ratchet. To remove the extensions - work in reverse.. pull the "assembly" out a little, remove one short extension, pull out further, remove another, etc until you get to the spark plug socket. On the 3 rear plugs - for two of the plugs you work from "your right" side of the intake manifold, or from the driver's side. For the final plug, on the passenger side, work from your left side of the intake manifold. On both sides remove minor hoses or brackets to get a little more room - just be sure to hook them back up.<br /><br />

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Ihave a 2001 Ford Escape. When i give it the gas, it boggs down, no power and has a straing sound. I changed plugs,wires,vacume hoses, throttle sensor,fuel filter, intake gaskets. AT WITTS END! What should...


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If you've had bad sensors, there is a chance it's plugged. You could remove it and try to blow the clog out with compressed air. If that doesnt work you'll need to replace it.
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2004 ford escape exhaust manifold torque specs?


2b507d0.jpg

Fig. Left side exhaust manifold bolt torque sequence-3.0L engine


22ac5ae.jpg

Fig. Right side exhaust manifold bolt torque sequence-3.0L engine

Both cases, exhaust manifold and new gasket, torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

Good luck (remember to rate this answer).

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If you have low pressure in the exhaust manifold, then there would an exhuast leak somewhere from the exhaust manifold to the tail pipe. These leaks tend to get bigger over driving time. It may be the exhaust manifold gasket, or a crack in the manifold. Give a good listen for a sputtering sound. Part of the exhaust pipes have to be removed for access to the manifold. A good spray of PB breaker will help a lot with the bolts here.
Escaping gas is bad for the environment. This also causes gas to enter the manifold and make its way to the valves. The temperature of the incoming air is very cold compared to the combustion chamber and can cause damage the your valves by stressing them.
If you find no leak, then you may consider the sensor may be faulty or the leak is very small.
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