Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1999 Daihatsu Sirion
Your engine is probably an EJ-DE twin cam 12 valve.
Generally Daihatsu belts have marks on them that line up with dimples on the sprockets for the intial phasing. You rotate the engine to top dead centre on No1 piston and install the belt from there. The cams should be not be putting any pressure on the intake and exhaust valves of No1 when phased correctly.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
My first thouhts are your ignition is still your problem, but upu haven't made it clear if the problem exists only when the engine is cold.
On the Charde you must push the pedal down before pulling the choke lever for the choke and fast idle linkages to engage... then start the engine.
The idle circuit consists of an emulsion tube and a solenoid. The solenoid is on the back of the carby and has a green wire running to it. If there isn't 12 volts on this at startup you wont be able to get the engine to idle without pedal assistance.
The carburettor also has an acceleration plunger that squirts a shot of fuel into the engine when trying to increase speed. This has a concetrina boot that can leak. It is situated on to op the carby.
The vacuum hoses need to connected correctly, especially one of the distributor hoses. That one must be connected to AD port on the carby. The following diagram is one of my modified layouts, but should work satifactorily. It is configured so that you can set the ignition timing a little more advanced than factory. When you set the timing make sure both hoses to the dizzy are removed and blocked. You adjust the dizzy position until the dimple on the flywheel lines up with the notch in the timing plate above.
For a test try blocking the hose coming from the oil cap to the bottom of the carby. The cap is also a PCV valve and if it's not clean it can allow excess air into the engine at idle.
My feeling is your points gap is not correct. It should be about the thickness of a hacksaw blade when open. The rubbing block on the points is notorious for rapid wear if hi temp grease hasn't been applied to the rotor lobes. A small gap will cause arcing under load and not provided sufficient dwell time for the coil to charge, resulting in a weak spark, missing, over fueling and lack of acceleration.
I also recommend you replace the plugs with Bosch Super 4's. They will last you a very long time and tend to be very forgiving with older worn engines.
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
It's in it's own casing, screwed to the block, just above the alternator, under the intake manifold.
Check previous posts regarding new fitting timing belt Although a different capacity motor, this should help you:
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
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Firing Order: 1 - 2 - 3
Base Ignition Timing
Note: With the T terminal Shorted.5 +/- 2 deg BTDC
Ignition timing should be checked and adjusted, if necessary whenever spark plugs are replaced or any distributor maintenance is done. Ignition timing should be 3-7°BTDC at 750-850 RPM with the engine check connector terminal 11 (brown) shorted, Fig. 1. The engine check connector is located near the top of the transaxle.
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
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