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Hey Strech it is me again you are probably tired of me asking questions,but you know your stuff.My ignition is the old type acc,off,ignition,lights but there is only 3 wires going to it a red to the left then a blue and the last one on right is a black one and that is the one going straight to the battery,so why only 3 wires instead of four?

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To clarify, by your statement, "only 3 wires going TO it", you mean the wires go UP TO the ignition switch, but are not hooked up to it, right?

Here's a top AND bottom pic of the switch:

Not that when the switch is turned over, the contacts are reversed (contacts on the right normally are on the left when switch is turned over).

Here's an (explained) view of the BOTTOM of the switch:


You stated the BLACK wire goes to the battery, HOT (+) I assume, so that would go to the long, curved terminal marked POWER IN.
This will be on your right when looking down on the TOP of the switch (remember,the layout is backwards when the switch is turned over).

The other wires (RED and BLUE), you'll have to follow them back to see which is the IGNITION, and which is the LIGHTS.

They will go to the appropriate switch terminal.
Lights to the one marked LIGHTS in the above mentioned illustration, and the one from the ignition to the terminal marked IGNITION.

Again, yours is not the standard wiring color code, probably because of a rewire in the past, so I can not tell if the RED wire goes to the ignition, or the lights, nor can I tell about the BLUE wire.

Posted on Feb 11, 2014

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The red one should be a power wire that is connected to the battery and provides power to the accessories --run and start positions. The blue one probably goes down to the starter solenoid to activate the solenoid to spin the starter . Black in an auto system normally indicates an earth wire so if it is connected to the battery it should be on the negative terminal. The old ignition switch never had a lights section as the battery light and dash lights got power from the red wire when the switch is in the run position only.

Posted on Feb 11, 2014


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1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram.
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SOURCE: need to know how to hard wire ignition module

Ford has substantially altered their 1978-86 electronic ignition test procedure. Due to the sensitive nature of the system and the complexity of the test procedures, it is recommended that you refer to your dealer if you suspect a problem in your 1978-86 electronic ignition system. The system can, of course, be tested by substituting known good components (module, stator, etc.)

This system, which at first appears to be extremely complicated, is actually quite simple to diagnose and repair. Diagnosis does, however, require the use of a voltmeter and an ohmmeter. You will also need several jumper wires with both blade ends and alligator clips.

The symptoms of a defective component within the solid state system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:
- Hard or no starting - Rough idle - Poor fuel economy - Engine misses while under load or while accelerating
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, first perform a spark intensity test to pinpoint the problem. Using insulated pliers, hold the end of one of the spark plug leads about 1 / 2 inch; (12.7mm) away from the engine block or other good ground, and crank the engine. If you have a nice, fat spark, then your problem is not in the ignition system. If you have no spark or a very weak spark, then proceed to the following tests.

Tell if you are talking about this ignition system...


Hope this help.

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Hey Strech the wires on the switch are as follows,first off it is a four position switch,the red wire is at 10:00 oclock,the blue is at 12:00 oclock,the black is at 5:00 oclock there is no jumper wire of...

First off, without the jumper wire, the ACC position will not function, but I've never used this position anyways.
It is so you can run your tail light without the ignition or headlight, in case you're broke down by the side of the road.

You keep telling me the BLACK wire goes to the battery, but you STILL haven't told me if it goes to the battery POSITIVE (+) or NEGATIVE (-) terminal.
BUT, usually the battery grounds (-) to the frame, rather than up near the switch, so I am going to ASSUME it is the POSITIVE wire to the battery.

That said, look here:

Your BLACK wire will go to the terminal marked HOT

Your RED wire will go to terminal marked IGN ONLY & BRAKE LITE.

Your BLUE wire will go to terminal marked IGN & ALL LITES

If you dont want to run the jumper wire (remember, without it, the ACC position won't work), then just ignore the JUMPER FOR ACCESSORIES.
Again, the ACCESSORIES NO IGN won't function, but this is a position that most people will never use anyways.

This SHOULD give you both IGN and IGN & LITES.

If, by chance, this works backwards, then swap the RED and BLUE wires.

Again, beings as it appears your bike has been rewired in the past with non-standard color codes, I am only able to go with the information you have supplied.

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The BLACK wire (that you say you know goes to the battery), would be the HOT lead, shown as a TAN wire in the diagram.
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If your switch is a THREE position (ACC, OFF, IGN), it might not matter, as these switches are set up to run the lights whenever the ignition is on.

The older FOUR position switches (ACC, OFF, IGN, LIGHTS) are so you can manually select if you want to run the headlight or not, and would also have a fourth wire coming off the switch.

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