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The bearings in your car are pressed into a hub. If the part is available as an assembly, it can be replaced that way. Generally on a front drive car: Remove wheels and brake calipers If it is pressed in: remove the rotors, disconnect the drive shafts and remove the steering knuckle. Then the old bearing is pressed out and the new one pressed in with a machine shop press. If the bearing is part of the hub, that will be unbolted and the new one swapped.
On a scale of 1-10 difficulty, Id rate it a strong 7
The brake rotor needs to be removed, drive shaft nut in center of hub then 3 bolts hold the hub assembly to spindle from back side. if it has abs unplug it then some work will need to be done with a hammer and chisel to work the bearing out of spindle and axle shaft from bearing
Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
Remove the brake disc.
Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
Remove the snapring.
Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
Install a new snapring into the hub.
Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
Install the brake disc.
Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
Lower the car to the ground.
Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment
most front wheel bearings are pressed in you half to take the whole control arm off pull out the hub press out the bearing grease the new one and press it in its best to take it to a machine shop do not try pressing it in yourself
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The other guys have never taken the wheel bearings out of a 2007 Tacoma! Remove the tire (duh) Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line securing bracket Un-clip the air sensor hose clip Remove the two 17mm bolts holding the brake assembly on the back side Remove the rotor from the wheel "spindle"- slides right off. Unscrew the four metric bolts (maybe 17mm) holding the wheel housing to its mount (they cannot be removed from the assembly yet, see below). That's right there is no normal wheel spindle with a big nut on the end of a threaded shaft in the middle! The wheel mounting plate (with the 6 studs) is pressed into the bearing housing. Get a replacement bearing assembly and take it and your old unit to a machine shop (unless you have a good press). An easy job, just expensive- $140 for the bearing assembly.
If you hear the moan of the abs pump that you have a condition known as overactive abs. Especial if you feel it kick in under 5mph. What is happening is a signal from a wheel speed sensor is dropping out at slow speeds fooling the abs module into thinking the wheel has locked up. The abs module responds by activating the abs system in order to unlock the wheel.
If you don't hear the moan of the abs pump than you have either a warped rotor. If you feel it more in the steering wheel than its the fronts that are warped. If you feel it more in the seat of the car than its the rears that are warped. It make no difference when parts where replaced. If the wheels are not properly torqued or the hubs are rusty than a rotor will warp in a heartbeat!
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
sounds like it could be wheel bearings but I'm surprised that when they rotate the tires they didn't catch this.
The next time you have your tires rotated ask to have the jacked up front end tested for loose front end parts. They can shake it down physically looking for play in the ball joints, tie rod ends, and bearings.
Struts generally wear out and cause a bouncy front end conditioin. Brakes, if properly assembled, won't make any additional noise when turning left or right.
sorry to tell you this but it sounds like the wheel bearing was put in backwards on one or both sides. the front wheel bearings have a black speed ring built in and that is what your speed sensor reads off. - this is common as the front bearings will install either way- hope this helps