Question about Ford Thunderbird

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Ignition Problems When I place my key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position it intermittently tries to activate the starter. If it doesn't try to activate the starter right away, I can give it about 30 seconds and the starter will come back on. When I turn it to the RUN position it starts but the starter stays on until I shift it into gear. When I unhook the ignition switch from the starter solenoid and start it directly from the solenoid, it starts fine and the starter doesn't seem to have a problem. I have already replaced the starter solenoid, the ignition switch, the lock cylinder, pulled the starter and had it tested. I don't know what the issue is. I need to figure out what the problem is. My only other question is if it might have something to do with the neutral safety switch since the starter will try to come back on when I am parked or shift into neutral. Any help would be appreciated guys, Thanks.

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Ford Master
  • 2,992 Answers

Yeah... Very good logic..!

Without the year... it would be pure speculation.

I can assure you that the late 50's did INDEED have troubles EXACTLY as you describe... and It was an EXCITING RIDE
(upside down with my shoulder on the gas peddle)...
((feet flailing in the air)).

So you probably want to raise the car, block the wheels
and select a flat/open area in up state Utah or Texas

Carnac the Magnificent

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1957,thunderbird,5.1l+312cid+v8,1338083,transmission-automatic

http://www.tee-bird.com/catalog_product.cfm?cat_id=20

Posted on Mar 11, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: key gets stuck in ignition

My daughter drives a Suzuki, my solution to her is: while the gear shift lever is in park, lightly put pressure on the gear shift lever, through the park position and while pressing the gear shift towards park light rock left to right while trying to remove the key.

The interlock between the transmission and the ignition switch needs to be adjusted/ repaired or replaced.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 95 F150 wont crank

the starter should be replaced. The solenoid is kikcing the pinion out but there is no contact being made to turn the starter motor. I have the exact same truck and before i changed the starter used the old starter tap trick. Tap the starter casing with a hammer and it should start turning again. hope this was helpful for you. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Key stuck in ignition

Under the steering column is an access plug. Remove the plug and insert a small shaft driver into the hole and push up gently, the key will release.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Test Inhibitor Switch

HELLO I HAVE A 95 NISSAN ALTIMA THAT DID THIS SAME THING AND IT WAS THE STARTER CHANGE THE STARTER AND YOUR PROBLEMS FIXED

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Chrysler Town & Country starting intermittent

I assume you've checked all connections from the battery and starter to make sure they are clean and tight. It is a little weird that you do not have trouble starting in neutral yet you get a clicking sound in park. My first thought would be the neutral safety switch on the transmission but you shouldn't even get a click in park if that is bad.

One possibility is the contacts in your starter have worn down and are causing too more resistance (explains the clicking). At the back of your starter is a metal cover that is held on by three tiny bolts (6mm). Disconnect the battery first! (You might have to remove the starter to get to this part) Remove this cover and pull out the plunger assembly. Underneath are two brass plates. Compare one plate to the other. If one is noticeably thinner then it could be the cause of the clicking. You will even see a round groove in the plate. You can buy the plunger and contacts from this website: http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html or you can opt to get a starter from your friendly auto parts store. The first picture shows the bad contact on the left. Notice the groove, the metal has become really thin there. 1e874da.jpgThis picture shows a pitted plunger assembly. Always good to replace it too.cd09a24.jpgThis picture shows all the new parts installed.207ff4f.jpg

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

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1 Answer

How do I get key out of ignition or start car?


You have to watch that now ,even on a 2006 vehicle . With the electronics an the number of control modules , every system has an electronic control module - a computer . When they lose power strange thing's happen .Sometime the only thing that will get the vehicle up an running again is a trip to the dealer . Battery Disconnect or Replacement Problems There are only a couple of thing's you could check an only if you know how the stating system works .It depends on what model LH2 or LY7 . You have to look in the under hood fuse / relay box an see if there is a STARTER relay . The starter relay is energized by the ECU - engine computer, there by cranking the engine over . Circuit Description
Moving the ignition switch to the CRANK position sends a 12 V signal to the ECM Ignition Crank Sense. The ECM verifies that the transmission is in the PARK or NEUTRAL position. The ECM then grounds the control circuit of the STARTER relay. When the STARTER relay is energized it allows voltage to the starter solenoid S terminal.
The problem of not getting your key out of the ignition probably has to do with the
Electronic Park Lock (EPL)/Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator: If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission and a floor mounted console gear shift, it has an ignition lock cylinder control actuator system in the steering column. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator purpose is to prevent the ignition key from being turned to the OFF position when the transmission is in any position other than PARK and the vehicle may still be moving. The column ignition lock system consists of an ignition lock cylinder control actuator, and a park position switch that is located in the automatic transmission shift lock control switch. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator contains a pin that is spring loaded to mechanically prevent the ignition key cylinder from being turned to the lock position when the vehicle transmission is not in the PARK position. If vehicle power is lost, and/or the transmission is not in the PARK position the operator will not be able to turn the ignition key to the lock position and will not be able to remove the ignition key from the column.

Linear Shift Assembly: If the vehicle is equipped with a column mounted gear shift, it has a linear shift assembly on the steering column. The linear shift assembly has a cable that runs from the linear shift assembly to the ignition lock cylinder case. The purpose of this cable is to prevent the ignition key from being turned to the OFF position when the transmission is in gear and the vehicle may still be moving. The linear shift assembly cable contains a pin that is spring loaded to mechanically prevent the ignition key cylinder from being turned to the lock position when the vehicle transmission is not in the PARK position. If vehicle power is lost, and/or the transmission is not in the PARK position the operator will not be able to turn the ignition key to the lock position and will not be able to remove the ignition key from the column.
Given the amount of electronics on your vehicle ,without hooking up a factory grade scan tool to see which modules are still communicating it would be impossible for me or anyone else to give you a diagnostic direction. I have had vehicles like this come to the shop after the owner tried thing's, an it cost them a lot more then it would have if they just had it towed to the shop .You have no idea about the complexity of you vehicle .
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1 Answer

1984 Ford Thunderbird Ignition/Starter Problems


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Engine wont turn over and no lights with key in accesory position


What about with the key in the on position -do the warning lights and gauges turn on? That would mean the ignition switch has power and can turn on.
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Won't turn over- you mean won't start or the starter won't spin the engine over? If it won't start, ignition spark or fuel problem. If the engine won't crank, problem is in the start circuit- from battery to starter, and from battery to ignition switch to starter. Park/neutral safety switch is in circuit between key switch and starter.

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Pontiac vibe ignition switch? Intermittent dash


Basic electrical problem . loose connection on a ground circuit ,high resistance . There are no magical fixes for automotive electrical gremlins . Finding electrical wiring diagrams an voltage drop testing the electrical circuits is the only way to find the problem .
When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position 12 volts is supplied through the Park/Neutral Position Switch or Clutch Pedal Position switch to the switch and coil side of the Starter Cut Relay. If theft is not active the Theft Deterrent Module grounds the control side of the Starter Cut Relay closing its switch. Power then travels to the coils side of the ST Relay with ground at G200 closing the ST Relay. Power then flows from the Main fuse in the Fuse Block - Underhood through the switch side of the ST Relay and then to the S terminal of the Starter Solenoid. Ground is found through the engine block.

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Free wiring diagrams here
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on engine then under subsystem click starting . I would start with a voltage drop test of the main battery cable to the starter motor.

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Jul 13, 2017 | 2003 Pontiac Vibe

1 Answer

1988 Trans Am will not start when ignition is turned all the way.


Take a test light to the small wire on the starter and have someone turn it to the start position. If the light lights up and the engine doesn't turn over, I would suspect the starter itself. If the test light doesn't light, try it in neutral and repeat test. If it still doesn't light up, it may be the PRNDL switch or the ignition switch itself.

Sep 22, 2012 | 1988 Pontiac Firebird

1 Answer

My 94 Taurus will not turn over. Lights work...I replaced starter then ignition switch. Car will not turn over. It has a history of intermittent starting problems. It may or may not start. Now it...


They have a bad ignition problem. Its more than likely the ignition. Turn the key on, Then right below the ignition theres a hole. take a long skinny phillips screw driver and push it up through the hole and you will hit a release for the ignition. Push it up as you pull the ignition out. Then try to start the car with a flat head screwdriver. Write back if that doesn't work but i have a feeling it will.

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When I insert key to start the car it will not turn at all. What is this part called?


The component is a starter. When you insert your key into the ignition and turn it, you switch on the power to the coil and vehicle computers. By turning the key to the start position it will supply power to the starter and solenoid which cranks the engine until you release the key allowing to return to the ignition on position. If the battery is weak the starter solenoid may engage producing a clicking sound, but it will not crank the engine. Another test is to turn on the dome light and try to start the vehicle, if you see the dome light dim when you are trying to start the car the battery is weak or the starter has a short. Starters are temperamental at times and can be intermittent working sometimes and malfunction other times. Your ignition switch, fuse, or relay could also produce symptoms of your vehicle not cranking.

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I have a 2000 toyota avalon ignition problems


Hello I have simular problem the ignition on is stuck in that position with the key turned off and out of the ignition switch.It feels like the key switch is spinning freely in the ignition. Do I need an ignition switch?

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1 Answer

There is no ignition when key is fully inserted and turned to on position. The battery and alternator are in very good shape. It looks like I need a new ignition. Might I need a starter too, or is...


How did you come to the conclusion that you need a new ignition? I assume you mean you need a new ignition switch and not a complete ignition system including coil, distributor, etc. Do a quick test. When you turn the key to the run position, several lights on your display will come on. If you turn further to the start position, those lights should go off, and the starter motor should spin. If you have lights in the run position and the lights go off in the start position, your ignition switch is ok. The problem becomes the starter activation circuit.

Next, check that the start fuse is not blown. Also, ensure the fusible link is not burnt.

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The problem is either in the mechanism that pushes the rod that activates the ignition switch from the key lock cylinder, or the ignition switch is defective.

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