Question about 1994 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

Replace slave cylinder - 1994 Nissan Pickup

Posted by on


1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    Visited the website for 10 consecutive days.

  • Expert
  • 138 Answers

Ok, the job is fairly simple if you follow the, safety first, Rule 1.

Do not breath in any material that is contained within the brake drum assembly.

Loosen wheel nuts on the wheel or wheels on which you wish to change the slaves. Chock the front wheels to immobilize the car(don't attempt to do this fix on slopping ground, Rule 1), let the hand brake off and disengage the gears. Jack the wheel or wheels off the ground and place jack stands(you can use other means of support, but I mean substantial support, bare in mind the weight involved and possibility of minor movement, Rule 1) under one or both ends of the axle. Remove the wheel or wheels.

Remove the brake fluid hose from the slave at the rear of the brake unit. Crimp the rubber hose to avoid excess fluid lose or you will drain the brake system and it is a pain to fix, not hard, but just a huge pain in the proverbial.

Look at your brake drum, some have small flush retainer screws which hold the brake drum to the axle end, if so remove them. Look at the back of the brake backing plate, there will be a rubber grommet that allows access to the brake adjuster, remove it. There is a special brake adjuster you can buy for a few $s, but a screw driver with a wide blade will suffice. Adjust the brake shoes off turning the star shaped adjustment wheel, if you turn the adjuster the wrong way it will lock the drum up, just reverse the direction of adjustment the right way to off, a couple of full turns is sufficient. Remove the brake drum, now more times than not they don't fall off easily because of corrosion and crud build up. If so, give the drum some gentle taps(I do mean gentle, this is a cast item and will shatter if it is hit too hard. You will be buying a new one if you break it) with a hammer to loosen and remove. Wipe clean and inspect the brake drum for wear and scoring, if it is too great you may have to have it replaced or honed. Check brake shoes for wear that sufficient material is still left. If they are down might be an idea to replace them, that is if you don't want to repeat most of this again later :-). Do not allow any oil or grease to contact the inner drum contact area. There are specialized brake component cleaners for sale.

Now you can see the business side to the brake assembly. You will see the brake adjuster, slave, 2 shoes, 2 springs(1 top and 1 bottom), 2 or 4 retainer pins and the hand break cable and arm. Take special attention of how the the springs are mounted, better still, take photos. Disengage the hand brake cable from the control arm and pull cable with the associated grommet out of the brake system, one less thing in the way. Remove the top and bottom springs, these are nasty powerful springs, refer Rule 1, pointy nosed pliers or multi-grips should suffice. Your adjuster can now be removed. Only thing holding in the shoes now is the retainer pins, put your finger on the pin at the back of the brake backing plate, with pliers, push and turn the lock washer on the inside 1/4 turn and it will all come apart. Take note of the disassembly of these components, they go back in the exact same way they come apart. The shoes will fall out. Now all you have left is the offending slave, remove the 2 bolts holding it in place and replace with the new item. Reassemble in the reverse order, make sure everything is clean, oil and grease free. You can use a good screw driver to put the springs back in, again refer Rule 1.

If you replace the shoes, you may have to wind the adjuster in some more to get the drum back on.

Nearly there, all that remains is to bleed the brake fluid line, slave and adjust the brake shoes.

Make sure you have sufficient brake fluid on hand and in the master cylinder. The level will drop in the master, so keep an eye on it and maintain a good level in the master. I, myself prefer to gravity bleed brakes, but that is me, it takes time, but you can bleed them quicker with the help of another person. Have person slowly pump brake peddle till they have pressure, undo bleed nipple, peddle will drop to the floor, hold on floor till you tighten bleed nipple. Repeat until you have fluid free of air, remember the MASTER. Brake peddle should have constant pressure and not feel spongy or slowly go to the floor. If it does, check for leaks or it is possible to still have air in the line. Bleed until you have a firm peddle. If the peddle is good, then all that is left is to adjust the shoes. Adjust until drum locks, push brake peddle, wind back adjuster until drum runs free.

All done, you will notice the peddle has increased after the shoes are adjusted, all good. Put the wheels on, drop to the ground, final tighten on the wheel nuts. engage gear, put hand brake on, remove chocks.

I can't stress how important it is to get the brakes right. A car without good brakes is only a missile looking to kill you or someone else. If in doubt, ask someone. Rule 1 always.

Posted on Feb 21, 2014

  • Stuart Dawson Feb 21, 2014

    Another thing that may help some in the future. Your brake fluid should be totally replaced at least every 12 months. Brake fluid is highly corrosive, don't get it on you or anywhere near your eyes .



1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

Clutch master and slave cylinder

Reservoir drained=got leak. Should be evident on one or other. Sometimes leaking at firewall hard to detect. Replace both, if one wore out the other won't be far behind. My 88 toyota pickup leaked there but replacement master cylinder rod was too long so had to use homemade spacer on firewall in engine compartment. Slave cylinder was a pain to get mounted.

Sep 29, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch master and slave cylinders

Always replace both the master and the slave cylinders at the same time, the reason you did not find evidence of a fluid leak may be due to the possibility that only the slave cylinder is leaking.

Jun 10, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hydraulic leaking

Do you have a hydraulic operated clutch? The slave cylinder for a hydraulic clutch would be on or sometimes inside the bell housing. Some ford and chevy trucks put the slave cylinder in a very difficult to reach place-the transmission has to be removed to service the slave cylinder. Most cars have the slave cylinder mounted on the outside of the bell housing. If they leak, replace or rebuild, although those internal slave cylinders I think can only be replaced.

Dec 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Where is the 1999 Saturn SL2 slave cylinder located?

on a manual transmission the Clutch Slave Cylinder is located on the drivers side front of the transmission. You can locate it by first finding the clutch master cylinder on the drivers side of the firewall. Then fallow the plastic line to the front of the transmission.

To remove the slave you will first twist it then pull it out of the transmission.

The clutch slave and mater cylinder are replaced as an assembly.

Oct 07, 2011 | 1999 Saturn SL

1 Answer

2001 mercury cougar, master cylinder ran dry because slave cylinder below is leaking at the firewall. I filled the master cylinder and tried bleeding the clutch at the transmission until fluid stream...

No, you don't need to replace the clutch itself.
Don't be surprised if the slave cylinder replacement doesn't fix it.
Could be the master cylinder.

Sep 12, 2010 | 2001 Mercury Cougar

2 Answers

Slave cylinder leaks

Remove the bolts holding the slave cylinder to the transmission. Disconnect the hydraulic hose. Reconnect hydraulic hose to new slave cylinder, and install the slave cylinder in it's original position.

Now proceed to bleed the line through the slave cylinder until a solid stream of fluid comes through, and the pedal pressure becomes firm.

Jul 10, 2010 | 1991 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

How do you replace the slave cylinder on a 1992 f150?

It is not usually necessary to replace the slave cylinder. Remove the cylinder and wash in metho. Exmine it for rust, pitting or grooving. If ok scuff the glaze from the cylinder walls with 320 grit w&d paper and more metho. Wash well with metho dry and fit a new kit of rubbers. Lubricate these with brake fluid ot rubber grease as you assembe. Refit the slave cylinder and bleed out the air. Job done.

Mar 18, 2010 | 1992 Ford F150 SuperCab

1 Answer

There is a small alloy pipe going into the slave cylinder that has cracked,can i replace this without replacing the cylinder?


Feb 06, 2010 | 2001 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor

Its sounds like a bad clutch cylinder or bad slave cylinder or fluid leaking. First check brake fluid level in clutch master , and check for a leak in clutch system. If there are NO leaks, then you either have a bad clutch cylinder or a slave cylinder. Bleed clutch at bleeder screw on slave cylinder and make sure there is pressure from master cylinder. If there is pressure then slave cylinder may be bad replace slave and bleed and that should take care of you problem. If master is bad then replace bleed system ad you should be good. Contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA.

May 16, 2009 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

1 Answer

After replacing starter and removing slave cylinder, clutch fails to work

sounds like you have a air pocket or you fail to engage the slave cylinder push rod If you disconnected the slave cylinder from the hose proceed to bleed out the slave cylinder if you didn't take you slave cylinder and whit out disconnecting the hose and make sure the push rod is against the clutch push arm.

Apr 20, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

Not finding what you are looking for?
1994 Nissan Pickup Logo

92 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Nissan Experts


Level 3 Expert

79186 Answers

Phil Lovisek
Phil Lovisek

Level 3 Expert

726 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22326 Answers

Are you a Nissan Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides