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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi ..... This sounds as if it's fitted with an automatic choke, as long as the revs drop when it's warm there is nothing to worry about. The indication when these start to go wrong is that the car won't start when cold ................ even then any decent mechanic can fit a normal/manual choke.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
SOURCE: irratic idle at startup
No check engine light? You have a couple of sensors that may be causing that, coolant temperature, incoming air temperature sensor to name 2 of them. Personally I'd have it put on a scan tool & remove the guess work. Some parts places will do it for free, well as long as you buy the parts there.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
SOURCE: not reving high on cold start
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
SOURCE: high idel
You may have a bad control valve or regulator. Did you adjust the idle properly?
1. Disconnect the connector on top
2. Adjust idle to around 650-700k rpm
3. Reconnect the electrical connection
After reconnecting, the idle should jump up around 700-750k rpm.
The idle screw is fail safe setting in case the ecu cannot set the idle. The rpm's set by the idle screw are supposed to be below the ecu/stock idle.
If this doesn't work, you may have a dirty or bad Idle Air Adjuster and/or Air Regulator. For information on cleaning that, you can refer to this page http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/157335.html
You can test the IAA by supplying power to the plug with the car off. Listen for any clicks or humming. That will signify that it still may be working but is possibly stuck. The Air Regulator is for high idle for warming up your car. It has a bi-metal spring inside that rotates a disc closing off an airway to bring idle to normal after a couple minutes. If it dies it will stay open and give you permanent high idle. If it gets clogged usually no high idle for warm up.
You can remove it and peer through the end. If you see a thin sliver of light, it's open. Connect 12 volts + & -, wait a few minutes and see if it's now closed. If not, it's likely dead. It can be opened and cleaned if that's the issue.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
the idle air control valve may be bad or just needs cleaned out. idle air control valve acts the same as a choke. if it is messing up it will cause engine not to run right.
Posted on Jan 27, 2010
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