Question about 2006 Toyota Corolla
WHEN I ROLL DOWN (Push t Button) THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW IT WANT GO BACK UP STRIGHT, IT SHIFT TO ONE SIDE AND I HAVE TO STRIGHTEN IT UP SERVAL TIME BEFOR I CAN GET IT UP RIGHT
Its broken the guides or window parts.
get it fixed
or remove door cards and DIY.
Posted on Feb 23, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The anti-pinch has to be 'reset', unfortunatly the motor has to be remover and reset. If you replaced the glass yourself... then go back and remove the glass from the regulator, unbolt & remove the regulator from the door (10mm bolts). remove the motor from the regulator. plug power into motor and rotate the drive gear 'UP' 6-10 turns. motor should be reset. reinstall motor, regulator and window. check operation before installing door panel.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
No won't be fuse. My guess is there is something faulty with the main controller. You could probably verify this by trying the switch on right rear passenger door. If it works there then the problem is at the main controller in the driver door. Could be a loose wire or the switch itself is broken.
Posted on May 13, 2009
I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.
Posted on May 31, 2009
No.The drivers master power switch is probably bad.YOu will have to perform a test on the three other switches on the master. Check for power and ground when you push each putton.If the master switch fails the test you need a new master switch.
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
It sounds like your switch may be faulty or there's a short somewhere
On the inside trim, you can remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls. Then you can remove the switches and test them
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
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