Question about Cars & Trucks
Jonathan, look into tune-up and regular service including fluid levels. Ithink a tune-up will do.
Posted on Feb 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
FYI also when you get those codes you can look them up and get their description at http://www.check-engine-light.com
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
is it a 1.8 turbo or 2.8 V6 or 2.7 biturbo V6 ? on most models what you will be looking for is a 3 letter code like ATQ or APW and is normally on a sticker on the timing belt cover, it is also stamped into the engine on a ledge up high. if no luck there check the owners manual, around the 3rd page there will be a sticker that was put in the book during predelivery inspection this sticker is about 3 inches by 3 inches and filled with id codes for almost everything. If the pdi wasn't done right another copy of the same sticker will be under or next to the spare tire in the spare tire well.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
SOURCE: temp guage not working
It's most likely one of two things: 1) coolant temp sensor (meaning the gauge isn't working), or 2) stuck thermostat (meaning the gauge is working but the coolant isn't getting hot)
Start with the coolant temp sensor - it's on the back of the engine, somewhat near the top, toward the passenger side. On your car it's likely a blue sensor body (as is the CTS on my 99 A4 2.8). The easiest way to get to it is to remove the tube leading from the airbox to the throttle body. Take that off, and you can look down and see that there's a squarish plug with four wires plugged into the top of the coolant temp sensor (at the right angle you can see the color of the sensor - black, blue, or light green, but most likely blue on your car). There's a C-shaped retaining clip that holds the connector onto the sensor which must be pulled off (pull more or less straight back toward the firewall), and then the sensor can be unplugged. The sensor itself is just pressed into the opening in the block, not screwed in - you just have to pull upward to get it out (it can be tough - try opening the cap on the coolant tank to alleviate pressure in the system). The sensor is not expensive (around $25 from www.ecstuning.com - call them up with your VIN number to guarantee they send you the right sensor).
If you change that out, and it doesn't fix the problem, don't sweat it - it means your temp sensor was working, but replacing it was a good idea anyhow since they're prone to failure and can cause all kinds of wacky problems when they go. Next most likely problem is a thermostat stuck partially or fully open, and this is more invasive - it requires removing the front bumper, opening up the core support (with radiator and AC condensor), losing (and having to flush and refill) your coolant, and the removal of the serpentine belt and fans. It sounds horrifying but it's pretty easy actually.
I'd suggest starting with the CTS and see if it fixes the problem. If it does not, reply here and let me know and I can help you through the thermostat replacement if you're mechanically inclined and have the tools. If you're in the northeast, I can do either repair for you (I'm in the southern tier of NY) and save you a bundle over a dealership, and save you the aggravation of doing it yourself if you're not mechanical or don't have the tools or experience.
Posted on May 02, 2009
SOURCE: Audi A4 engine sputters/no power
Hi i know exactly what is wrong I had the same problem with my A6 change the air mass flow meter or sensor min was wher the air filter is sat writ on the top n£45 from eby good lich.
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
I had this as well, but you just have to wait a second. You can't remove it to quickly, the car takes a second to essentially unlatch the key.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
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