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BY PASS SWITCH BY RUNNING A FUSED JUMPER WIRE FROM THE BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL TO WINDOW MOTOR CONNECTOR, HOT SIDE, AND A NEGATIVE WIRE BACK TO BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL...IF WINDOW OPERATES....IT IS THE SWITCH
Had the same problem, You Need a volt meter and need to "Know How to Use It" to fine this one. Take readings at the motor connector when it is working right and write them down on paper, when it stops working again, take the readings again. If they are the same look toward the motor, if they are different look toward the switch and wiring, again using voltage meter readings, Mine was a connector pin that was now "clicked" in properly. Intermittent electrical problems can make you feel like your a blind man trying to catch a stray dog. good luck
You will have to take the inner door panel off to see if it is the motor or the wiring to it. There would be two wires going to the motor from the switch-one turns the motor one way to raise, and the other wire will turn motor in opposite direction to lower the window, all depending which way the switch is operated. You could take off the connector at the switch and use a testlight to check the wiring: key on, use the switch and see if power is present at the motor. If it is, it must be a worn motor. Consult a repair manual for proper removal procedure of the motor-sometimes the window regulator that the motor attaches to is under spring pressure. If there was no power to the motor, you'll have to trace the wires back to the switch, and possibly on to the master switch to find the problem.
Do you hear a clicking noise when you turn your truck on? Its probably the actuator. While the defroster was on I removed the fuse locted under the rear driver side seat. I think its 36B. It stopped the clicking noise and my air vents work well now.
Sounds like the motor froze up, you'll have to access it by removing the door panel. Then try tapping on the motor while holding the switch. If this does not work, it will need replacing. Hope this helps, TJ
The problem is an electrical failure in your circuitry. From Fuse to lights, to the door switches is a complete circuit. It is possible the lock switch is stuck or faulty making the motor keep running. There may be a relay that is sticking open for that door motor. Between the switch and motor if you do have the relay. I would try disconnecting the lock switch on that door first, then if it still occurs try disconnecting lock or window the one on the drivers side. If the problem still occurs, then your looking at a problem in the electrical such as shorted wire somewhere.
is an electric motor that turns heater core on and off. It's located
under the dash to the left of the glove box. Some disassembly required.
The part will cost about $120 to $180. part number is #MR958603. I saved money by
purchasing it on line. It is a stocking part at most Mitsubishi dealers.
Once you pull the glove box out and remove the bottom half of the dash
all the way across, you should be able to gain access to the motor to replace it. Caution:
if you do not put everything back in correctly and tie/tape it all back
down carefully in the correct places you will have lots of under the dash noises when you are done.
Hello, To check to see if its the motor or the switch is simple. Turn the ignition switch on and turn off all noise making things, radio etc. Open your door that has the problem and operate the window switch while you have your ear against the door panel. Listen carefully, you should hear a slight click as you operate the switch. Make sure that the child lock is not on. If you hear it click, the window switch is good and the motor is bad. If it doesn't click, the switch is bad. If the motor clicks but has no movement you will need to replace it. It comes as an assembly with the regulator. You can not buy the motor separately. You do not need to take to a dealer for repair but whoever does it needs to know these cars. I hope this helps. CYA, Gator241