Question about Chrysler 300C
Try silicone spray down tracks/felt on both sides. Be generous and let it run down the track . It may be an easy fix, and cheap to try.
Posted on Feb 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: drivers power window went down
Had the same problem with mine, Removed the door panel and removed the window motor( two bolts holding it in), reconnected the window switch and ran /tested the motor. If it runs reinstall the motor and it should go up and down now. I had 2 windows jam down and this fixed both of them
Posted on Jul 23, 2008
I had the same problem and found the the plastic clip that holds the window to the guide rails that guid the window up and down was broken. The solution is the window regulator assembly has to be replaced. The cheepest place to find replacement is the salvage yards. Older models will work but some have to be dissemble and make 1 unit out or 2. Another thing that happens is the cables that runs in the tracks get rusted and binds a little, Remove the door panel and lubicate the tracks that the cable travel in, I hope that this will help
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.
Posted on May 31, 2009
SOURCE: My Driver side window in
Andrew, it may have lost power to it due to a bad wire or a loose wire. Also, the window track bar may be broke or it may br off track. You have to take the panel off of the door to find out. Since your other three work, it is not a fuse. I am not familiar with the new panels. The old ones have screws on the outside of the panel and one for the door handle. It has to come off to fix the issue. Once you remove the panel, remove the plastic sheet and foam in the inside of the door. You will be able to look at the window after that. Test your wires for current and make sure none have came loose. Make sure the window is not off track and the window bar is at the bottom of the window. It goes down with the window and pushes it back up. Get a voltage reader and test the wires for power. If they have power, it is not the wires. 4 thumbs up is appreciated if you appreciate the reply. Andrew, don't hesitate to ask me a question. I am here to help you.
Posted on Feb 26, 2011
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