Question about 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Front differential the small rubber hose located on the back of the front differential came loose from wherever it leads to,spraying gear oil all over the engine compartment. my question is where is the other end of the hose attach to as it was dragging on the ground and I don't know where to re- attach it. your help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • Jeep Master
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Posted on May 10, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Hose connection location

If you look under there you should find a steel or plastic line that runs up to a place inside the engine bay.( If it is connected directly to the differential) If it is connected to a box mounted on the right side axle it is part lof your 4x4control and should carry vacuum. With engine running you will hear vacuum leak and easily find connection point.
(but you didn't mention any driveline problem so it's likely the first, which is only a vent line. as long as it is not pointing foreward or straight up it is also ok to just secure it out of the way. (but not where it will become submerged in water etc.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

johnjohn2
  • 5763 Answers

SOURCE: hose is connected to the front differential and is

This hose is a vent hose for the differental, it hooks to the diff and then the other end goes no where, this hose should be higher than the diff, use a zip tie and just strap it up, there should of been a clip on the side of the frame that the hose clipped on to , it may have broke or just pulled out, try to locate the clip and pop hose back on or just tie it up out of the way but higher that the diff, also dont tie tight and leave a little slack so it wont pull hose down when the diff moves up and down, good luck and hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 18, 2011

  • 295 Answers

SOURCE: how do i check gear oil in front differential

remove plugg on side of diff and stick finger in hole if you touch fluid you are good if not prepare to throw away your clothes and add fluid

Posted on Aug 17, 2012

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There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
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6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
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9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
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12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

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