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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if you have the 5.2 V8 its located in the rear of the engine near the dist cap area you can see it if you look in that area , if 4.0 6 cyl its located on the side of the engine block near the oil filter area. It has two wires going to it and screws into the block. It's made mainly of plastic and if broken can allow oil under pressure to spew out and give you thoughts of a blown rear main seal due to the amount of oil all over the underside.
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
If you want to repair the oil pan I would also check lower engine mount for leaking oil and cracks in anti sway bar near fitting's. This due to engine mount is oil filled. OEM sway bar is made of tubular steel and they crack easy. Replacement sway bar is solid steel. Here's the kicker. When they pull the lower frame to service oil pan. The engine mount and sway bar are attached to that frame. A honest mechanic should only charge for parts ($35 for mount and $100 for sway bar) and maybe a extra hour. My mechanic did all in 5 hours. FYI gasket is only $35 bucks. Good luck
Posted on Mar 02, 2010
noise mostly. If it gets bad enough the idler pulley can seize. when that happens it will smoke the belt off into shreds and smoke and glory. It will be very exciting for everyone but you.
If you can pull the belt off you can spin those pulleys and see if any of them sound rough. If they wobble at all or make any noise you can hear with no trouble then they are bad.
Posted on Apr 27, 2010
Most serious item I see is oil pressure. Put a mechanical gauge on the engine and get an accurate reading. Also make sure that the passage to the sender isn't blocked. If you did the pump yourself, did you find any coolant in the oil? In 99% of all low oil pressure situations, the oil pump has not failed. Rather, either a cam bearing or crank/rod bearing is worn. You do not have to have one spun or completely worn out bearing. Even wear of all bearings that is somewhat excessive can bleed off enough pressure to cause problems (plastigage the engine bearings to determine wear).
As far as coolant loss. A cylinder head gasket can fail between cylinders, into a water passage, into an oil passage or any combination of those and externally as well. The cylinder heads on engines beginning in about '98 are prone to "micro-cracking" which can lead to all kinds of hard to diagnose coolant loss problems. It may help if you have a shop do a dye test and a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system and see what they find.
I have seen several kinds of block sealing systems available. Though I generally do not recommend them, as the longevity of the repair isn't predictable, you could try that as a option of last resort.
There is no quick easy solution to your problem but with a bit of "poking around" you may be able to cure it. Don't bother repairing one problem before finding out what the other one is first though as together, it might be smarter to replace the engine.
Posted on May 09, 2010
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