Question about 1999 Chevrolet Suburban
If you swap the battery positions, does the problem move to the RHS ?
Posted on Feb 09, 2014
Testimonial: "hi ,no i swapped the batteries and now they are both reading 14.10volts. havent been for a big drive yet but any ideas why it would do that, thanks"
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This vehicle has a "Regulated Voltage Control" system. The computer reduces the charge voltage based on several parameters to improve gas mileage. Normally it shouldn't be a problem, but the computer will increase the voltage if you switch on the headlights. Also, if you're in Tow/Haul mode the voltage will increase.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
You may have a voltage drop in the battery feed to the Alternator through the fuse link and into the battery.
Check the charge rate at the battery feed on the Alternator, it should be at least 13.8 volts, if it is, locate the fuse link and check it there on both sides of the link, if its still good, follow the cable back to the battery checking the voltage as you go. If you find that the voltage suddenly drops across a connection or the fuse link, remove and clean the connection or replace it if possible. If the voltage at the back of the Alternator is less then 13 volts, then the new Alternator may be faulty. If the voltage is higher then 15 volts, then the Battery feed to the Alternator is bad and MUST be fixed. Check these voltages with the engine running but watch out for moving parts ( fans etc). If you think the battery feed to the Alternator is bad, shut the engine down and recheck the voltage at the Alternator, it should be at least the same as it is across the battery. If there is no power to the Alt when the engine is off, start at the fuse link, checking for voltage and trace back to the alt until you lose the reading. If you get no voltage at the fuse link, track it back to the battery. The voltages at the battery and Alternator should be the same or only have a difference of half a volt, any more and you need to locate and fix the bad connection. DO NOT run the Alternator without the load of the battery for extended periods as this will damage the Alternator. The Alt needs the internal resistance of the battery to function correctly. If the voltages from the battery to the alt are correct, check the regulator wiring. If memory serves, there are two small wires to the alt which are in a small plug into the alt and one thick cable which connects to a bolt on the alt. The thick cable is the battery feed, the two small cables are the regulator feeds. One small cable operates the warning lamp in the dash cluster and the other is another battery feed which gives the regulator an indication of the charge rate AT THE BATTERY so if this one is missing the regulator will also cut out. The warning lamp wire serves as an indication to the regulator that the ignition is turned on and makes the alternator charge. This lamp should be on with ignition on but engine NOT running and should go out when you start the engine. If this lamp does not light up at all, suspect a broken or missing warning lamp connection or faulty regulator.A blown warning lamp bulb will also prevent the alt from working, this is because the bulb is fed with power and is grounded at the alt through the regulator and exciter diodes, feeding the regulator with power until the engine starts, then the alternator output essentially puts power to both sides of the diodes causing the lamp to extinguish. A diode is a one way valve for electricity and the regulator is inside the alt. If you suspect a faulty alt or regulator, remove them and have them checked by an autoelectrician. Unless you know what you are doing, DO NOT attempt to disassemble the alt as you can cause catastrophic damage and have to purchase a replacement alt. You may also void any warranty by disassembling the alt..
Undertake these tests and if you have any questions, email me here:
Posted on Dec 15, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 07, 2015 | Isuzu Cars & Trucks
Jul 08, 2014 | 1997 Chevrolet Suburban
Jan 14, 2013 | 2003 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
Jul 17, 2011 | 1996 GMC Suburban
Nov 18, 2010 | 2007 Chevrolet Suburban Three-Quarter-Ton...
Jun 25, 2010 | 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class
May 27, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Intrepid
Mar 25, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Club Cab
Sep 15, 2008 | 1995 Chevrolet Suburban
85 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: