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Bleeding clutch Hi, just wondering where the bleeding nipple is on the 1994 mazda 323 1.8L, is it easy to get to?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

KCracin
  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: we are not getting pedal on the clutch after bleeding the slave

Here is your issue, I have an '03 with the same tranny, the problem is most likely the slave cylinder which requires a pull of the transmission the part is 50 bucks and I did this in about 10 hours on my back, by myself and just a little swearing. I replaced the whole thing the pressure plate, clutch disk and slave cylinder as I was not going to do this again.
The other side of the issue is the master cylinder in which I find if the Slave is bad the master is also bad, hence the pedal dropping to the floor.
The bleed is simple it is a gravity bleed. Loosen the bleeder and let it run. then after you verify there si no air you can pump up the master and it should work fine.
this is a poorly designed system as the slave cylinder on the mitsubishi tranny is inside the bell housing.. good Luck

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: location of brake/clutch bleed valve nipple

AHH look for it by the slave cylinder it might have a black rubber cap on it to keep dust out it will look simliar to the bleeder valve on the brake system

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: no clutch pedal been bleeding it for 3 days

these are notorius for clutch bleeding problems, there is no good answer other than to keep pumping that pedal, eventually it will bleed out

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 266 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding clutch in 1994 honda passport

IT IS JUST LIKE BLEEDING A BRAKE SYSTEM HAVE A HELPER GET IN AND PUMP THE CLUTCH PEDAL AND THEN HOLD IT DOWN AND OPEN THE BLEEDER ON THE SLAVE CYLINDER KEEP DOING THIS 4-5 TIMES AND YOU SHOULD HAVE A PEDAL IF NOT THERE IS ANOTHER PROBLEM MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE CLUTCH MASTER FULL

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

drsinister69
  • 2317 Answers

SOURCE: clutch will not hold pressure

It could be the clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder.

Posted on Oct 22, 2010

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1 Answer

I was bleeding my clutch in my 1994 Mazda bravo b2600 and the fluid stoped coming out the nipple but the reservoir is full is it block


I've seen those nipples clog up. Try removing it and clean it out.

You can , carefully, pinch the hose while you do that.

May 02, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleed hydraulic clutch


the slave or the master please specify..the slave is the one directly on the pedal..take note reservoir for clutch and brake are the same and the master clutch is located on the transmission forward part the bleeding nipple is directly above the clutch itself

Apr 06, 2014 | 1998 Mazda 323 1.3

2 Answers

My clutch pedal will not keep pressure. I replaced my clutch master cylinder and the problem still persists. my car is a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2 liter 5 speed. the question I have is how do I locate the...


Hi. Don't know your car specifically but I can tell you if you follow the hydraulic hose to the gearbox and its not bolted at the gearbox end then its inside and the gearbox. The gearbox will have to come off to replace the slave cylinder. Jon

Dec 09, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you bleed a hydraulic clutch on golf mk4


Hi Riaan, This is a two or three person job. Make sure the reservoir is full and kept full during the whole operation. open the bleeding nipple on the slave cylinder until clear fluid is seen running from the opening. Close the nipple and press the clutch pedal from the top of its travel to the floor four times and while the pedal is fully depressed open and close the bleeding nipple. Repeat until clutch pedal pressure feels correct. Make sure the reservoir is full and off you go. Regards John

Oct 17, 2012 | Volkswagen Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replaced the clutch master cylinder in 2001 kia sephia but still not working. The fluid wont go to the cylinder even after bleeding what did I miss?


Hi Monique, As you have replaced the master cylinder, what is the condition of the slave cylinder? I wonder how you are bleeding the system. The procedure is as follows. Fill the reservoir and have a friend keep it full as the bleeding procedure is carried out. Pump the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and then release it to the upper end of its travel. do this until you feel pressure in the pedal and with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor have a friend open and then after two seconds close the bleeding nipple while you hold the pedal down. Once the nipple is closed repeat the action and the bleeding procedure. The nipple must only be opened and then closed while you hold the pedal to the floor. Repeat the procedure until the clutch action returns to normal. Regards John

Sep 09, 2012 | 2001 Kia Sephia

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



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Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

I filled my clutch resevor with fluid dot 3.. I believe i have air in the line, is there a bleeder? If so where would that be located? Thanks , Zach


Line from reservoir goes to a cylinder at clutch lever on bell housing. There should be a bleeder nipple there. Looks like a brake line bleeder. Let me know if you find it. Thanks.

Feb 06, 2011 | 1988 Mazda B2200

1 Answer

Clutch adjustment possible?


there's really no adjustment, if the pedal feels soft or it doesn't disengage you can try bleeding the fluid with fresh. If it still doesn't help it will likely need service

to bleed you'll need:
small hose that fits fairly snug on the bleeding nipple, around 8-12 inches in length.
small wrench (I want to say 8mm, but I can't recall for sure off hand)
a jar for the old fluid to be purged into
some DOT 3 (or higher) brake fluid

Preparation: place the hose onto the bleed nipple (just follow the hose from the reservoir, which is attached to the air filter box, down to the transmission itself, it should be pretty much up front and fairly easy to access) [my own preference is to use a closed end wrench on the nipple first then the hose to help hold it in place]

Bleeding: use the wrench to loosen the nipple a bit (maybe quarter turn), then press the clutch pedal, if the nipple is loosened enough it will easily go to the floor and stay there, go back around and tighten the nipple, then go back and pull the clutch pedal back off the floor, repeat the process until it appears that the fluid is clear, might be 20 or so repetitions. Don't forget to keep adding fluid to the reservoir as needed.

Dec 08, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

My clutch went out and i had a mechanic friend replace the part...its the part under the engine not the actual clutch but he cant get pressure back in the clutch and cant figure out if bleeding the system...


Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ΒΌ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.

Oct 27, 2010 | 1988 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

95 mazda b4000 slave cylinder bleeder valve location


the nipple sticks out side the bell housing on the left side just above your hydralic line for your clutch,auto zones web has a complete diagraham and steps for bleeding

Jun 17, 2008 | 1996 Mazda Pickup

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