Question about Mazda 323
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here is your issue, I have an '03 with the same tranny, the problem is most likely the slave cylinder which requires a pull of the transmission the part is 50 bucks and I did this in about 10 hours on my back, by myself and just a little swearing. I replaced the whole thing the pressure plate, clutch disk and slave cylinder as I was not going to do this again.
The other side of the issue is the master cylinder in which I find if the Slave is bad the master is also bad, hence the pedal dropping to the floor.
The bleed is simple it is a gravity bleed. Loosen the bleeder and let it run. then after you verify there si no air you can pump up the master and it should work fine.
this is a poorly designed system as the slave cylinder on the mitsubishi tranny is inside the bell housing.. good Luck
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
AHH look for it by the slave cylinder it might have a black rubber cap on it to keep dust out it will look simliar to the bleeder valve on the brake system
Posted on May 09, 2009
these are notorius for clutch bleeding problems, there is no good answer other than to keep pumping that pedal, eventually it will bleed out
Posted on Dec 06, 2009
IT IS JUST LIKE BLEEDING A BRAKE SYSTEM HAVE A HELPER GET IN AND PUMP THE CLUTCH PEDAL AND THEN HOLD IT DOWN AND OPEN THE BLEEDER ON THE SLAVE CYLINDER KEEP DOING THIS 4-5 TIMES AND YOU SHOULD HAVE A PEDAL IF NOT THERE IS ANOTHER PROBLEM MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE CLUTCH MASTER FULL
Posted on Oct 16, 2010
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Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.
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