Question about Infiniti G35
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the heater hoses and if both are hot then the mode door is broken
i have replaced 2 in the torrents(not a nice job)
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Replace the bad radiator hose first. Second- get you special formulated anti-freeze dye from the auto store and pour it into the radiator. Third- make sure you got all the air pockets out of your system, cause the coolant system won't work with air pockets in it. Fourth- Check for leaks by looking for the colored dye. If it's not the radiator hose, then could possibly be a pin hole in your radiator. Would suggest replacing all the radiator hoses at the same time while you got the coolant system disconnected, cause you don't want to have to come back and replace another hose in a few months.
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
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Why was radiator replaced?Did it have heat before ? If it was plugged, the heater core may also be plugged. Try flushing it with a water hose in both directions. I dont know why the botton radiator hose would be cold, the radiator should be a uniform temp and the air coming through the radiator should be HOT, when the engine is at operating temp. What condition was the old coolant? if it was rusty, the water pump may have lower flow than normal.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
SOURCE: 2001 Lincoln LS heater blows
When the engine is cold,check the coolant level.
Make sure it's on max.
A coolant system should be flush every two years.
If you did a coolant flush recently then air pocket can be the cause of the un-even heating problem.
The DIY method is to drive you car onto a ramp or a steep hill.
Iet the engine cool off and top off the coolant tank.
Set MAX heat + MAX fan
Let the engine ran for 20 minutes wih the cap off and the trap air will escape from the coolant reserve tank,
Check coolant level and top off coolant when the engine cools down.
A shop will charge $75+ for this but using an air operated excavate tool!
A car with over 90K miles may experience linkage problem to the heater control valve.
The heater control valve (near the firewall) may be stick over time.
Open the hood and move the heater to max and min. Back and forth.
Clean and lube the linkage with WD-40 to free the heater control valve.
If it's a vacuum type heater control valve then cash for leaky vac. hoses.
Move the fan switch back and forth to re-new the electrical conductors.
Pass a vacuum over the control panel to prevent dust build up behind the console.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.
Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.
Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak
This test will kill two birds with one stone.
MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!
RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!
You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!
Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .
Top of the coolant reserve tank
Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.
Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.
Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark
After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.
If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.
Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.
If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.
Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.
Start monitor for coolant lost
A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.
Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.
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Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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