Question about 2006 Ford F-150
Ash tray comes open won't and won't stay stay shut How do you replace the the whole compartment?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
FROM: Lusty Kid:
Your fog lights should not work with high beam... they should work with the low beams. they are connected wrong, which probably drew too much current through the light switch burning out the contact points for the parking lights in the switch
Start by Fixing the fog light connections to work with low beams. Appears to me this was not factory installed. Aftermarket kit maybe! Then see if your parking lights work. If parking lights don't work still and everything else works, replace the light switch $50 at the dealer. The switch works the fog lamps when you pull out the knob to turn on the fog lamps when the lights are turned on. When the fogs are on you will see a little amber light to let you know your fogs are on. When you switch to high beam the fog lamps go off. Again if its not working that way, then is wired wrong. Needless to say, there should be connectors in the harness of the lights for the fog lamps. Use those if possible with the kit that you can get at the dealer, or you can splice the connector with those blue splicing clips sold at the auto part store. Make sure ground is ground when splicing and water proof the connection sith silicone and tape.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
All 3 are on separate fuses.
Cab fuse panel ( passenger side kick panel, by the fuel inertia switch ) :
Instrument panel power point : Fuse # 39
Rear Power point : Fuse #37
Cigar lighter : Fuse # 41
If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
Could be low on differential fluid, leaking from the wheel seal. The Differential gears could also be worn from low on fluid or ears was not lined up and have worn it self out.
Service the rear end, inspect the fluid's condition and measure the any play in the gears in the rear end replace is worn out.
You may buy some time by running 50% to 100% Lucas oil treatment in your rear differential. Good luck and hope your differential is not to badly worn.
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
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