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THE HAND FULL OF WASHING POWDER : IN THE FIVE GALLON BUCKET:PRODUCES SUDS:AND CLEANING POWER:THEN YOU RINSE THAT SOAP OFF AFTER THE CARWASHIS COMPLETED: AND THEN YOU RUBTHE ENTIRE CAR DOWN WITH A THIN COATED CAR WAX:THE RUB ON AND WAX OFF IN SECONDS:THIS PROCEDURE PRODUCES: THE QUICK FIX CAR WAX.
Just by keeping your car exterior clean you can increase the gas mileage of your Audi up to 7 percent according to one independent engineer. Again, the less drag the better. Indeed, we do have water shortages these days so keeping your car waxed is more important than ever. In fact, waxing your car could have more benefit than just washing it for the simple fact that dirt is more repellent to a waxed car than an un-waxed one. Keep your car waxed and let the rain be your car wash.
if it drives good,why not just ignore it ,till spring
(usa answer) its 85F here.
its the gas tank venting system.
learn to use a real scan tool
then post the DTC errors or savvy persons can wax smarter
in bad weather evap systems are in fact noted for there malfuctionig or flat out lies.
try to imagine when the fuel tank,goes from hot to cold
the gas cap ,vacuumbreaker opens and sucks in fresh moisture laden air, and then that vapor, freezes.
no power on earth can stop that. (key off)
wait till spring and stop worry.
or post errors.
we can work single word fails ever,"evap"
open gas cap
put back cap
and start car
if not scan it while cranking, omg dTC errors. try not to guess
read the errors, lots can fail cold.
does engine start using spray test fuel method?
if yes, its fueling issue
cap is first. on tank filler, those too can freeze and fail, all by thereselves..(vacuum breaker faILURE)
#1 there are two types of oil used in engines asphalt base which leaves tar and sludge. And Paraffin base that leaves your wax sludge in engines. these are raw oils and additives have been added to create your engine oil. But now we need to determine how these deposit are created and stick to internal components and the damage that they have done. #1 oil has a life span created by time and temperature. So changing oil at earlier intervals helps stop these sludge build ups, Most new car manufactures call for a 6 month 7500 mile oil change. with a little* after it stating if you drive your short distances and in extremely cold weather to do it sooner. WHY? oil gets contaminated with the by product of combustion and the moisture content in the air by not building enough heat in the oil this allows the oil to cool and stick to the walls in the engine. now the other end salesman drive cars about 3000 miles a month go 6 months the same problem occur due to the additive package added to the oil base has been gone since the oil has reach its limit of use of 7500 miles so the contaminates are suspended in the oil to help create sludge. Now think of your engine having HIGH cholesterol changing your diet corrects this but in the engines case it is your to determine your driving style and change the oil accordingly. one change of recycle oil does not create sludge THIS is a long term problem, NOW CHEAP solution. Warm engine drain oil and filter install the very cheapest filter you can buy. put kerosene and cheap oil in crankcase with filter 3 quarts oil 2 quarts kerosene. let engine idle for 30 minutes. Drain out put fresh oil and filter. Drive 1000 miles repeat again this may take 6-7 changes to reduce the sludge. If engine smokes out exhaust after treatments check oil use which if greater than 1 quart per 1500 miles piston ring damage & valve guide have been done. A rebuild is the only answer to this problem. Good luck.
scrape off as much as you can with a dull knife or a credit card. Then use toilet paper to blot up the wax while you heat it with a hair blow dryer. Put the toilet paper on the wax and apply warm air above the paper. The wax will melt and absorb into the paper. This will get some more out but not all. To get the remnant of the wax caught in the cloth fibers, use naptha (lighter fluid) to dissolve the remaining wax and blot up with more paper towels or tissue. The naptha will smell some for a little while but since it is dry cleaning solution, it will evaporate quickly. The other choice for cleaner is electrical contact cleaning solution. It will dissolve the petroleum based wax and it evaporates without leaving a smell or residue behind. This technique should get out about 95% of the stain.
You cannot clean the insides. The are sealed if you attempt to remove them, which is a big job in itself, you run the risk of damaging the seal and allowing water and moisture to get inside which could lead to more problems. What I would recommend is to visit your local parts store, and pick up a bottle of Maguire's cleaner wax. Apply some of the wax directly on the headlamps and with a terry cloth or a microfiber cloth rub the wax in real good with a little bit of pressure. Allow the wax to cure and then polish it off with a dry part of the towel. Generally these headlamps oxidize and causes this foggy or cloudy appearance.
Directly on top of the motor,Remove the black cover plate(6-8 screws).Next remove the contents within the "well"....The small boxes with the solid,yet wax-like-looking material within them.....and the plunger-ended spark plug wires(carefully pulling)...lift out these parts,remembering their order...WATCH FOR SMALL,BLACK WASHERS.....The plugs reside inside engine head...you will need an extension...It really is easy!
it does have plug wires...they are cleverly hidden under the black cover plate directly on top of engine head(6-8 screws)......Remove the contents you see(the solid,wax-like looking boxes..which you will notice,are connected to....your spark plug wires.The plugs set down inside engine head...you will need an extention to remove them.........upon removal of any item,be sure to watch for any washers.....