Question about Ford F150
Car won't start. But lights don't dim when I try. I fiddle with the wheel and try a few times and it starts normally. Oddly, I was able to start in neutral once, which isn't supposed to happen.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would start by banging the bottom of the gas tank while you are cranking it over. If this causes it to start, replace the fuel pump. If it still doesn't start, there is a valve on the fuel rail on the top of the engine (you may have to remove plastic cover). Remove the plastic cap on the valve, and while you have someone cycle the ignition to the run position from the off position, depress the center tab on the valve and see if gas comes out. If it doesn't, replace the fuel pump. If it does, let me know and I will help you further. (note: replace fuel filer at same time.)
Posted on Oct 19, 2008
This may be a problem with the ignition switch. The ignition switch feeds power to many of the different systems- including the starting system and the dash.A low voltage output of the switch will not allow the starter relay to engergize, along with many other odd problems. A way to check this is that when it is acting up, turn the ignition key back and forth very quickly many several times, or tap and the head of the key with a small hammer. These things will normally cause a faulty ign switch to correct itself for the time being.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
its the passlock system. The passlock wire is tiny and fragile, and gets disrupted causing your car to think you are trying to steal it everytime you put your key in.
now you can search for this video on youtube, this is where i learned and ever since i did this i have had NO problem with my car starting for the past 5 months.
you need wire nuts, wire cutters, electrical tape, n socket wrench to take apart steering column
first, go to your fuses, find the airbag fuse and remove it just incase you snip the wrong wire. what you do is look below your steering wheel and take your steering column apart. there are a serious of wires electrical taped together that are plugged in. you peel all the electrical tape back exposing the wires, and you find the WHITE wire. its all white, no other color. This wire is for your Passlock system.... this is the wire that got faulty and is causing the car not to start. now what you do from here is kinda tricky, not too bad though.
Seclude the white wire from the rest, so that you are ready to make your cut. Now, what you do is start your car, leave it running, and while its running you cut the white wire in half. then after cutting the wire, turn your car off, and then turn it back on. it should start right up. Then just put wire nuts on the two ends, and electrical tape them back together
The point of doing this is, one is disables the passlock system completely, and two the reason why you do this while the car is running is because snipping the wire with the car running makes the car think that it got into an accident or something, and puts the BCM/car into a "Fail-safe" mode, making it start every single time no matter what.
i thought this sounded insane at first, but after searching for a couple of hours its the only answer that made sense. and now i am the happiest camper in the world as far as it starting
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
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Jul 14, 2012 | 2007 Honda CR-V
Check the fuel. Don't rely on your gauge, and if in doubt add some fuel just to make sure there is enough to start the car. Try to start the car and if it still doesn't start you know that fuel isn't the problem.
Make sure your car is in Park and the emergency brake is set.
Look closely at your dash board when you attempt to start the car. If your lighted panels don't come on or are very dim then it is likely that you are dealing with a dead battery. Either use a battery tester or simply hook the battery up to a charger or use jumper cables to hook up to another car battery in order to charge the battery enough to start the car. After you charge the battery if your car still won't start you may be dealing with a bad starter.
Call a mechanic to find out if there are any other possibilities before you purchase and replace the starter.
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Jun 06, 2012 | 2001 Oldsmobile Alero
Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All
Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be something as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.
Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter solenoid.
Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this problem.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.
Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start
Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.
Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.
Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.
Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.
Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off
Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you
Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am
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