Question about Geo Tracker
Transfer case clunks real hard when disengaging it is a manual shift lever type
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Put the transmission in neutral, emergency brake off, foot off the brake pedal, now try shifting out of 4 wheel drive low. If that doesn't work, drive forward, and again do the above, trans. in neutral, roll to a stop, foot off brake, try to disengage. What you're probably experiencing is called drive shaft 'wind up', and it is very difficult to disengage, but do the above and it should shift out of 4 low. countrycurt0
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
SOURCE: four wheel drive not engaging
You can check the vacuum lines and diaphram that are located underneath the battery shelf. Comes out really easy. Check that the lines are not broken. There is a vacuum line that runs to a solenoid in the center of the fire wall, make sure they are not broken there, and there is an actuator cable that runs to the transfer case. Sometimes it is as easy as replacing the vacuum hose, the actuator cable, or the diaphram under the battery shelf went bad. If you ever had a battery leak acid because it went bad.....that acid goes under the shelf and eats those lines. Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
hi mike i had the very same problem with my 55 plate s type this morning 4 feb 2009 had driven a journey of 20+ miles at 9am with 4" of snow on the ground and at this point no problems and i would assume the discs and pads would have been toastie hot and the assoc parts ,
but after a quick stop for ten minutes i restarted the car and drove away up a slight incline in snow /slush the rear wheels lost traction and the dsc sybol illuminated on the dash after getting no traction in this mode switched dsc off and managed to get some traction by hook or crook on reaching the major grit treated road and gaining full trction the dsc was re selected
as per normal start up but then i noticed that i had the amber oval warning light on the dash and park brake fault promt on the info lcd .
On stopping the car i tried to switch off the engine and re start to see if this would reset or clear the display
resulting in the car still showing same fault msg and this time unable to select a gear and the gear selector stuck in park
on calling jaguar assist an engineer arrived within a reasonable time with laptop and conections to do a diognostic scan
finding that his pc would not cummnicate with my car following several attemps the engineer went on to get the park brake disengaged by these next two steps and i can only say that this worked sufficently to get the vehicle off the road to a more suitable investigating area
in my case my drive way less than 1/4 mile away
step 1. inside the boot lift the floor to expose spare wheel and battery compartment
then on drivers side, the interior that covers the rear light cluster should be teesed back there are two black fixings that secure this in place one being 1/4 turn the other a full thread plastic nut
once this liner is pulled back (easier with two people )there is a white (PARK BRAKE ) module sat there with a multi plug going in .
this multiplug contains severa wires going into it.
from what the engineer said the two your intrested are clearly fatter than the rest and control the motors that engage parking brake force to the calipers .
now heres the clever bit take 2 peices of wire at least 2 feet long making sure the ignition is off and key out
(this is also where a friend comes in handy )
where the battery is, remove the cover from atop of the live + terminal and place place /hold /secure one wire to each batery terminal this done then carefully touch the exposed other ends of each wire into the little gaps where the individual fat wires go into the multiplug trial and error will do one of two things
1/ nothing and the brake motors will just remain powered to keep brake force applied so by swapping them round should give the desired result in powering the motors to RELEASE breaking force and thus disengage
REAL IMPORTANT NOTE MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE CAN NOT ROLL ,OVER YOU ,OR AWAY ,CHOCK A WHEEL OR TWO WITH SOME THING BLOCK OF WOOD BRICK MOTHER IN LAW YA GET MY DRIFT
so stage one complete but error msg and drive selector still not moving
center console where ashtray is ,lift cover to expose cigar lighter
the trim panel that is sheild shaped and surrounds the gear selector should be grasped firmly by placing your four fingertips along the flat top area where it meets the ashtray and prise upwards toward the roof this removes the trim plate without any damage and exposes the Jgate selector linkage and the plastic dust shroud that rotates when various positions are selected .
now on the pasenger side look into the gap that has become visable and a small aprox 1/2" to 3/4 " protrusion with a flat straight lump similar to a slotted screw but in reverse if you get my drift sits on the side of the selector by rotating this button/protrusion with your finger tip or screw driver tip and trying to move the gear selector from its park position this should allow the selector to move down the gate,while the engineer did this in my case i was sat in the drivers seat and had the car held on the foot brake so that the normal protocols of selecting were observed also the engine was running on moving the selector neutral was selected and at no time was park re selected til the vehicle was recovered to my drive way
however whilst driving the car the parkbrake fault warnings were still present and the asssoc beeps were audible .
strangly once we were on my drive the car was re plugged in to diagnostic laptop after the engineer had tried it on the land rover disco he had attended in and this done just to elliminate that his laptop and cables were funcioning correctly which they were ,
my car began to communicate with his machine and a reset was done
the get you out the S**T CHEATS were put back to normal
the PARK BRAKE FAULT warning was cleared and so far so good
its been very intresting to note that all the posts i have read on the web seem to refer to 2005 models and that adverse wheather conditions seem to play there part i was relieved to have this fixed and very grateful to the engineer who was so very helpful and happy to share his wealth of knowledge without which i could not have passed this on
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
Yeah your right about waer but you might be blaming the wrong part. With the truck up on jack stands ( all wheels off the ground) have a helper drive the truck at the speeds that make the most noise you'll find it in the front axel or fround U joints or drive shaft splines ( drive shaft jumping ) You watch the parts moving and the joints or the cable that shifts the ront axel in and out not moving all the way it uses a vacume motor under the battery that has a cable going to the front axel. the clutches that are in the front axel have clips on them that hold the side gears that engage and disingage as you turn it on and off the clips break get lost fall off were out and let the side gears do as they please and they runinto each other a click and pop/ the cable and the shift fork that move them also fail but not htat much as the cable fails and the vacume leak pulls on a spring in two wheel and it may not be pulling hard enough/
Posted on Sep 17, 2010
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