Question about 2004 Chevrolet Silverado
Any time the temperature gets below zero this winter the transmission slips until the engine is warm when put in reverse. Have had some of the well publishe engine train, transmission, and rear end problems with this truck, Had to switch out the entire rear end due to failure at 89000 miles and 147000 a new transfer case. Dont have any trouble during the summer and have the transmission and transfer case and rear end oil servaced regualarly with GMAC oils that I bring. Am I looking at a new Tranny at 178000? Have to keep this truck no choice of sale or trade.
To be honest here i do not have a lot of experiance with auto boxes as they are few and far between here in europe where its all small diesel engines and manual gearboxes but from the description it sounds like the clutch is slipping ,on all auto boxes their is a front clutch ,its a multiplate wet clutch that locks up with a oil pressure operated piston type system ,so if the clutch is worn or the piston then this will cause your problem ,now check the oil level when hot by applying the handbrake and putting in reverse with engine running and checking the oil level ,or when cold the level should be about half inch above the max without the engine running.Beware though that some vehicles do not have a dip stick for the auto box so no way of checking the level so what you do in this case is find the breather on top of the gearbox and some way or the other add a pint of dextron oil and see what happens
Posted on Feb 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You should have the trans., transfer, and diff. serviced, if you got an owners manual it will tell you in there at what intervals or the milage it should be done at,mostly around 35 to 50.000 you got that kind of milage on it and its never been done you better do it, the oils do break down and don't last forever, it could cost you more in the long run.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
there is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
I would check the wire harnesses for damage (pinching, cuts and such) from the transfer case. There may be damage from the trans install. Also fuse panels both under hood and interior. Since no lights are on it is probably a fuse or the harness is disconnected.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
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Before guessing at transmission problems, check the fluid level (car warmed up, engine running in Park on level ground) and have the PCM scanned for trouble codes FIRST.
Secondly, put a line pressure gauge (or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valvebody), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).
Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Transgo HD2-C kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R. Also try a transmission flush with BG brand products (Firestone stocks it).
No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. R&R, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the trans is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.
1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Trans is on its way out. R&R
Good luck and start with checking your transmission fluid level. Thank you for using Fixya
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
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