Question about 1990 Jeep Wrangler
Runs rich won't stay running replaced map and temp sensor
Cadaver is right on -- except he missed one question that needs to be asked first. You say you replaced the temperature SENSOR.
Which one? If it was a 1 wire sensor, installed in the head at the back corner of the valve cover, on the drivers side, that one is for the gauge only..... And it is call the temperature SENDER.
You likely need to replace the one for the ECU, which is usually in the side of the block behind the exhaust manifold (lay under the vehicle and look up on the driver side -- you will see two sensors in the side of the block. The one way down by the oil pan is the knock sensor, the one higher up is the coolant temperature sensor. DO NOT remove the coolant temp sensor on a hot engine -- antifreeze is going to come out when you remove it and you could be scalded!
I ask the question above because the temp sensor is the usual cause for running rich -- but as you can see from Cadavers post, its not the only possibility. The other most common cause (also associated with lack of power) is a plugged air filter. Have you checked yours lately?
If you have the I-6, any OBDI scanner set up for chrysler should be able to read the codes from it (assuming you have the orginal 1990 engine in the vehicle AND you have the HO version.) If you have the non HO version, then Cadaver is correct. No reasonably available scan tool for the Renix Jeeps...
Easy to tell which version you have : Do you have a check engine light? Yes = HO, No = Renix.
Note, the AMC symbol on the dash in the renix version is NOT a check engine light -- in fact its actually a low fuel light...
Hope this helps!
Posted on Feb 15, 2015
Which engine, 2.5L , 4L, or?
no scan tool for 93
is CEL lamp glowing running.
lots of things can cause rich, we do tests to find which, lots of tests.
BAD IAT , air temp sensor. reads too cold
oxy sensor would be first. not map, map would be last and can be tested easy the map. just a voltmeter test,
ECT sure, if way off.
water temp not 180F or more. holding, if low, ECT sees and and ECU
never leaves cold start. and sucks fuel for ever .
way too high fuel pressure.
EGR stuck open ,but that causes hot stalls.
bad spark for any reason, ever tune it up?
got black spark tips?
not reading the scan codes and CEL glowing, the ECU
could be in limphone mode. and will run rich and retarded spark.
use the jumper wire and read out the DTC codes. first.
using the diagnostic jumper , shown in the FSM.
Posted on Feb 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 92 Jeep Wrangler MAP sensor bad?
This may not be your MAP but your Catlettic Converter. I also own a 92 Wrangler and had some of the same issues. My issue was actually a couple of things but they all came from a crack in my exhaust headder.
You may want to check your exhaust headder for cracks. If there is even a small one, (which are VERY common w/ YJ's) than your O2 sensor is thinking that the engine is running too lean. Therefor telling the fuel pump and injectors to dump more fuel into the engine. Well, truth is your not running too lean, in fact, you begin running too ritch.
The unburned fuel that is now comming out through your exhaust collects on the porslen screen inside your catalettic converter where it burns off, causing the screen to melt together. Resulting in a clogged cat.
The only way to fix this is to replace the ehaust headder (welding the crack will not work) and replacing the cat. This would explane your loss in gas mileage and power, due to over back pressure. The ticking sounds like the back pressure working on your valves.
Hopefully I'm wrong and this is not your issue because it is a very expencive repare. You're looking at around 350.00 to 500.00 just for a good headder and atleast 250.00 for the cat. However, an easy way to test this is to take a flash light and have a good look at your headder anywhere there are joints where pipes come together. Look for black, ashy spots above and around the joint. If you see this anywhere then I hate to tell you but this mite just be your problem.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
caster is adjusted at the rear of the lower control arms. Camber is fixed and cannot be adjusted by normal means (though special off-set ball joints are available to do that) Toe in is adjusted by turning the sleeves in or out on the tie rod ends. None of this should be done at home though crude adjustments can be made in order to get the front end reasonably straight. Adjustments are made on an alignment machine that allows precise adjustments to all you mentioned as well as front/rear tracking.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
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