Question about Cars & Trucks
I own a 2000 Subaru Outback 2.5L and it has 174K miles on it. I have owned it for three years now and it has always had issues with starting in the cold (temperatures under 35 F). I am located in the Pacific Northwest and live in Vancouver, Washington, which does well to keep slightly above this degree, but the weather still dips below causing my frustration. When turning the engine over, the starter will continue without turning the engine over 90% of the time. In the few times it does turn over, the engine runs extremely rough and will die. Attempting to turn the engine over again will end with the same result leaving my family and I stranded. I have replaced quite a few parts including: fuel filter, fuel pump, battery, each part included in a tune-up multiple times, and I keep up with the oil changes. I had the injectors flushed out at a local shop, which increased my acceleration when the car is running, and they told me a pressure relief valve (name may be incorrect but the action is important) on the fuel pump needs to be replaced. The valve is not leaking fuel but allows air into the line making the fuel drain back into the fuel tank causing longer turn-over times since the pump has to fill the line again to reach the injectors. My question is to individuals who are mechanics and who may have dealt with this same or similar issue, does this sound like a reasonable fix to the problem? I have been dickering with this issue for far too long, though I have been putting it on the back burner at times, and I would like some outside opinions. Any help is appreciated, and thank you in advance.
Simply put the vehicle has a fault recorder and storage facility that when a scan tool is used will reveal the faulty sensor and nowhere in your statement did you mention that the fault codes were read
next hard starting in cold weather indicates that the ECM is nit receiving the temperature reports or the air density reports that it needs to know how rich to make the fuel mixture ( like pulling on the old choke cable but electronically done )
If the codes are read you will most likely find ambient air temp sensor faults , barometric pressure sensor , maf/VaF sensor problems
Posted on Feb 28, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
CHECK THE COLD START ENRICHMENT VALVE AND OR THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE. I AM ASSUMING THAT YOUR VEHICLE IS FUEL INJECTED. ONE OF THOSE HAVE GONE BAD.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
Have a mechanic take a look at your throttle position sensor and engine idle sensor. Make him manually adjust them as opposed to just putting in new ones. It may require that you have to have a higher idle than normal. Your underlying cause is going to be that I am sure you have a lot of miles on your engine.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
I'm having a similar problem. The mechanic replaced the fuel pump relay and car ran fine for a while. The problem has since reoccurred. What I've read is that this could be caused by loose wiring connections or a bad ECM (computer) which is a notorious problem for this engine. I first thought it was a fuel delivery problem as well but I'm thinking it is more of a wiring issue.
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
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