Question about 2004 Mercury Mountaineer

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When turning left (from dead stop or while driving very slow as in parking), horrible grating, grinding noise and the left front tire will "chirp". Very loud metallic popping sound occasionally. New left axel and differential 6 months ago. What could it be? SUV is all wheel drive.

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Change hub bearing assembly recommend to do both sides.

Posted on Feb 23, 2013

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Sounds that something is wrong with your left axle. maybe they forgot lubrification when installing. see a mechanic before this axle gets damaged if it has not allready happend

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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1 Answer

Noise from right front tire


jack up front left on level ground ,support and chock rear wheels and set park brake ---look and check the cv axle for leaks,tears or damage -put in neutral and watch axle should turn smoothly turn steering wheel to left and rotate tire again watching axle if their is binding or grinding or studder movement than axle is damaged and needs to be replaced

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Front driverside tire hesitates when the vehicle starts moving


Sounds like you have a bad wheel bearing. These cars are known for that. It could also be a bad CV joint [axle] , but it won't usually make your wheel hop. Jack car up and try to move wheel top to bottom. There should be no play at all. Try spinning the wheel while it is off the ground, if it's a bearing, you will hear a grinding noise. If it's a bad CV joint, you will hear a clicking. Let me know if this was helpful to you, and until you get it looked at, I wouldn't drive it, as the wheel can fall right off if it's a bearing. Good luck

Jan 04, 2013 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

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I own a 95 JGC V8. Every time I turn(in either direction) the entire vehicle skips and makes a horrible lurching sound. I got the CV joints replaced a couple of years ago, and the problem persisted. I...


This could be a bearing problem, but it sounds to me like the lowwer ball joints. Ball joints are difficult to check, but if they are rusty then they are probably bad. Bearings on the other hand are not that hard to check. raise the tire/s off the ground , grab the tire top and bottom and push in and out. if there is movement in and out then the bearing is bad.

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2000 Chevy Blazer 4x4...started making a horrible loud noise after my cruise control went out. I have recently replaced my hub and the brake pads and the CV axle. The noise comes and goes and only happens...


does it get louder above 45-60mph? and much quieter at low speeds. It could be wheel bearings, a rear differential or front differential. If its a grinding humming noise its wheel bearings, listenin to see if theyre coming from the front or rear, left or right, or both when your driving to know what wheel bearing are bad. If its a whinning noise, its probably a differential. check and listen to hear if its coming from the front or rear. Also, check for loose plastic around the wheels. Lastly check your tires for uneven or choppy wear. move your hands front to back on the top of the tire. does it feel really choppy and rough, maybe you just need new tires

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My son has a 2002 GMC Sonoma crew cab that is making a grinding noise when making turns, both left and right. This may be an unrelated problem but the tires are also squealing when taking off from a stop,...


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I have a toyota altezza and i have a squeaking noise in front suspension


Hello alt.... There are several possible causes.


1. Test drive the car. Start with the windows down. Find a parking lot or somewhere relatively quiet so the noises can be heard. Drive straight at 20 miles per hour and lightly apply the brakes. Listen for squealing, rubbing or grinding; this would indicate worn brake pads. Slow the car to 10 miles per hour and make a sharp turn in both directions. If you hear a clicking noise, the CV joints are bad and need to be replaced. If you hear a grinding noise when driving straight ahead slowly, the hub bearings are bad. Come to a stop and turn the wheel in both directions. If a grinding noise is present, the top bearing plate is suspect and must be checked further. Put the car in park and get out. Push up and down on the front end of the car. If a squealing noise is present, the struts or control arm bushings are bad and need further inspection. Take the car home to continue the inspection.

2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.

3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.

4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.

5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.

6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.

7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.

8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.

9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.

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1 Answer

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