At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
My engine will run for 2-15 minutes and then, whether I am driving or idling, the engine cut off with about 1.5 seconds of the engine fading. After the engine dies, if I try to re-crank the engine, it will turn over about 1/3 of the time right away. Sometimes, it will turn over about 5 minutes later. Sometimes I have to wait many hours. The air filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and fuel filter have all been replaced. I have checked all the fuses in the engine and passenger compartment fuse boxes, as well as the two added b/c of the alarm. This car is distributorless.There are no codes displayed by the computer. There is an aftermarket alarm system installed on this car. I am completely lost and haven't found anything like this on the internet. I really appreciate all the help that everyone on this website provides. If only the rest of society functioned this way.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you have good spark at the plugs then it is vacuum or fuel.
1 vac listen for hiss in the few min it runs
check lines for damage, splits, unhooked etc. don't forget under car and dash
2 check fuel pressure, check for fuel delivery to the cyl. remove spark plug crank and check small look for fuel. remove coil wire so it won't start on you.
This problem
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
Here are the most common causes of surges, stalls at stops, low erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
Here are the most common causes of surges, stalls at stops, low erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
The following conditions must occur to complete a Trip and test all OBD II monitors and components including the Catalyst Efficiency Monitor:
-- The misfire, comprehensive component, and adaptive fuel monitors are checked continuously from engine warm-up and can complete any time.
-- The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) monitor test requires a series of idles and accelerations.
-- The heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) monitor requires a steady speed drive for approximately 1 minute at 30 to 40 mph.
-- The catalyst efficiency monitor requires a steady speed drive for 1 minute and 20 seconds beyond the HO2S monitor test at 40 to 65 mph.
If you cut engine off before test are completed then you must wait for a 6 hour cool down before monitors will run again.
This is for turbo equipped cars to allow the turbo to cool to a safe temperature before stopping it. A usual amount of time is approx 10 seconds of engine running at idle after driving the car hard.
×