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Re: loose steering tire wabbles
Unless your entire rack is loose, there's nothing you can tighten, but it sounds like you have a wheel problem, more than a steering problem. It's either out of balance or the rim is bent. Try putting your spare tire on that one, and see if the problem persists. Even if your steering is out of whack completely, it won't cause a vibration... just bad steering.
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basically everything can didnt specify type of vehicle so well go thru list first tires out of balance or under inflated and or oversized for vehicle ---hub /wheel bearing going bad ---upper or lower ball joint bad or damaged ----upper or lower control arm bushings---shocks/struts bad ---tie rods not properly installed ---idler arm bad or damaged --steering box/steering rack bad or damaged
Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.
Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake CaliperDo not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching NutNut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering KnuckleNote: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from TransaxleWhen removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it. A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.
I would look at replacing your ball joints and/or tie rod ends, either can cause those symptoms. The balls joints should be check by a professional.
To check your tie rods jack one front side of your car check it, then do the other;
Move the front wheels. Placing your hands on the tire at the 9 and 3
o'clock positions, move the tire back and forth rapidly. A properly
tightened front end will give no signs of excess movement and should
give you the feeling of the entire wheel moving back and forth tight to
the hub. If there is a movement, ask a friend or partner to ascertain
where the movement is coming from. There could be many places that
excess movement in a front end could be coming from. The tie rod ends
are the easiest to check. Generally, if there is movement in the outer
tie rod end, you will see it moving near the ball area where is sits
down into the knuckle of the control arm. Excess movement there will
require replacement of the outer tie rod. As far as movement on the
inner tie rod, place your hand on that while your helper is moving the
tire in the same motion described above. Determine how excessive the
movement is, if any, for an inner tie rod. Some vehicles will give off a
little movement in the rack and pinion. Some vehicles will have what
feels like excess movement, but have pitman arms and idler arms that
will also need to be checked. Those components should only be allowing
side-to-side movement. Take some time and make sure the lower ball joint is not moving. Place
your hands on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it up and
down. Many vehicles nowadays have wheel bearing hub assemblies, and
there should be absolutely no free-play whatsoever. If there is and
the lower ball joint is not moving in the knuckle, chances are there's
movement in the bearing. Some rear-wheel-drive vehicles have a bearing
seated rotor and this can be adjusted to tighten the looseness in a
bearing; however, a little movement in that type of application is
Removal & Installation
This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel
Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
Outer tie rod retaining nut
Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
Lower ball joint retaining nut
Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
Steering knuckle from the vehicle
Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
Install or connect the following:
Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
Tire and wheel
Lower the vehicle
Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
Grab hold off the prop-shaft to see if it is quite solid, it could be a worn UJ. Check the balance weight on the same shaft to ensure it hasn't slipped forward or backwards on the shaft.
Then get wheels checked, they could need re-balancing.
shakes?or shacks?Let's just say that you mean shake.If your brake pedal pulsates,replace the rotors.If your steering wheel shakes(low speed)broken belt in front tire.Jack up one tire enough to clear the ground,spin it.Spins nice,lower and jack up the other.Spin that one,if the belt is broke it'll be very noticable.While up in the air check the lug nuts,if they're loose it can make the steering shake too.If the shake is at highway speed,bad shocks or tie rods or ball joints or a combination of these.Jack up a front tire and try to move it(Key turned off to lock steering).If it moves top to bottom,ball joint.Side to side,tie rod.Doesn't move,shocks.The worst could be a bad hub bearing,but you'd hear it and you said nothing about any noise.
here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.
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Removal & Installation
Apply the brakes and hold in place.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
Release the brakes.
Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
Remove the tie rod heat shield.
Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.
Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.
The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.