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Re: failed emissions test
First, thank you for asking me for my input on this. It just so happens, that I used to own a Ford ranger that had the same engine as yours. It was a 1990, but there are few changes to these model years.
Anyway, there is only one reason that your HC levels would be high. Your engine has WAY too much unburned fuel in the exhaust. The same reason applies to high CO levels. Too much fuel and/or not enough air.
Below is a link that you may find very helpful. It explains exactly what we are talking about here and also lists some of the possible causes.
Incidently, when I had the same emissions failure on my truck, replacing the air filter and replacing a failed MAP sensor fixed it. - I did NOT have to replace the catalytic converter. If the numbers are as high as you listed above, you will only destroy a new converter anyway because there is obviously not enough oxygen in your exhaust system for the catalyst to function properly. Those numbers are nearly DOUBLE the allowable maximum. If the engine is running correctly and the catalyst is good, your numbers will be WAY BELOW those maximum numbers.
Please understand that I am NOT telling you to replace your MAP sensor without proper diagnosis. There are many possible causes here. Please click the link above and read the article. It will help you to understand what is going on here.
Pull the advance plug (Mushroon shaped plug with two wires on right side of motor) and set timing to 0 degrees. This has worked on my 1989 2.9 stx in Texas. Runs bad with no power but it should pass emisions. This trick lowers nox gasses to an acceptable level.
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First of all, HC (Hydrocarbon) are the residue of petroleum based product combustion. If your HC reading are higher than the OBD2 legal limit (220 ppm), the most common causes could be a leaking fuel injector, abnormal oil consumption, a faulty Oxygen sensor or worn out spark plug / distributor cap / spark plug wire. To be honest, I would need more accurate details such as NOx ppm, CO ppm, CO2 ppm and Oxygen ppm and if there is any repair that have been made on the car recently to give a proper diagnostic.
seems like those may be two different issues. check for vacuum leaks and have your fuel psi checked. High fuel pressure can change your emissions numbers. I believe the fuel psi should be 30-45 psi. if its way above that then the nest step is to check the fuel pressure regulator
Here is some info for you to read, besides me explaining what ppm is, i also gave you some info of how to solve this, Ain't that special LOL. Mike
Overall Result: PASS or FAIL. A vehicle with a properly operating engine and catalytic
converter will have very low HC and CO readings. However as a vehicle ages the HC and CO
emissions will increase and may become erratic. As a vehicle ages it becomes increasingly
important to be sure that the engine and converter are fully warmed up before the test to
have the best chance of passing the test.
HC (PPM): The parts per million of hydrocarbons (unburned or partially burnt gasoline)
in the exhaust.
CO (%): The percentage of the exhaust that is carbon monoxide (CO).
CO +CO2 (%): Complete combustion in the engine or catalytic converter will result in very
little carbon monoxide (CO) and a high percentage (up to about 16%) of carbon dioxide (CO2)
in the exhaust.
O2 (%): When there is complete combustion in the engine or catalytic converter there is a very
little oxygen (O2) in the exhaust. Usually less than one percent. A higher reading indicates a
problem with the engine, the exhaust system, the sampling system or the catalytic converter.
Vehicles do not pass or fail because of the O2 reading; it is only diagnostic information.
RPM: The engine speed in revolutions per minute (RPM) or N/A.
Cruise Limit: The maximum allowable HC and CO emissions at 2500 rpm. The CO+CO2 (%)
must equal or exceed 6. This verifies an adequate sample of the exhaust has been obtained.
N/A for O2 and RPM.
Cruise Emissions: The emission readings measured at 2500 rpm.
Cruise Result: PASS, FAIL or N/A.
Idle Limit: The maximum allowable HC or CO emissions at idle. The CO+ CO2 (%) must equal or
exceed 6. This verifies an adequate sample of the exhaust has been obtained. N/A for O2 and RPM.
These are the possible problems:
bad o2 sensor
bad EGR valve bad cat bad timing
bad plugs or wires
the less costly fixes include replacement of the o2 sensor and EGR
valve i would not clean the EGR I would buy a new one there are very
cheap you can pick these up at any local parts store .
also run some injector cleaner through your car at least a full tank of
gas and one bottle of injector cleaner should be ran through.
you can also have your timing checked for a relatively low price.
and when you go into to have the vehicle checked make sure the car is
been running because your cat convertor has to be warm in order to
preform at it peak so do not do it when the car is cold.
all of the above are pretty reasonable fixes the general rule of thumb
when you work on your own vehicle is start with the cheapest fix first
then go on to the next.
First either replace or clean the idle air control valve.You can clean it with a non-chlronated brake cleaner and wire brush.Then take the mass air flow sensor off and do the same but don't use a brush just the cleaner only.
Jose, I don't know if this will give you the answer you are looking for because there are many things to consider here. The exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR) is one of the main things involved in reducing NO emissions. This valve is controled by the power control module. (PCM) This is your vehicles computer. The PCM monitors the vehicles speed and will command the EGR to open when the vehicle attains a certain speed, which is why the ASM test being done is recorded at two different speeds. At 25 MPH your vehicle failed the hydrocarbon (HC) emissions limit and this could be for a number of reasons. When is the last time you car was tuned up? Old spark plugs, wires, clogged air filters, oxygen sensors, leaking injectors (personal experience) or the PCV valve could be contributing to the results of the test. I guess that the easiest way to go is to tune up the engine replacing the spark plugs, wires, air filter and the PCV valve and don't forget to have the oil changed at the same time. Only then should have the vehicle retested and see what the results are. Should it fail again you may have to consider having the EGR or the catalytic converter replaced depending on what portion of the test fails. If the NO fails I would consider the EGR. If the HC fails then I would consider the catalytic converter. Good luck with this.
Does it have a vacuum leak? If it was that bad it should have thrown a code. That being said the first thing I do with a vehicle that fails emissions is to replace the o2 sensor. o2 sensors start wearing out the day they are put in. Generally I like to replace mine once a year though I know that is a bit of overkill. It does make sure the system is running topnotch. keep in mind my vehicle only has one o2 sensor.
I would go to the pharmacy and buy a half gallon of 75% or better isoprople alcohal the run the vehicle to almost empty,then add the alcohal and put just a few gallons of high test in it then drive to your testing station and get tested again after engine is warm.Afterwords go and fill it with more gas.Remember the more alcohal the betterbut no more than a gallon the the mix.It worked for me in ct with a 79 muscle car malibu and my numbers were of the charts.
Hydro Carbons are usally from an engine missfire. It may be that it is such a sligh miss that you cannot feel it. What is your timing set at? I would try setting it at 2* advanced and see what that does for you.