My axle dissconnected from the transmission. It does not have the gear shaft at the end of the axle to slide back into the transmission, it broke off. I was wondering if you can tell me what the parts are and an estimate for the prices of the parts and labor. Thank you.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: 2004 chevy z71 drive terrain, Axle
If you are talking about rear axle you will have to go to a driveline shop and have a new drive line made up. you will need a front yoke the tube and rear youke also if you lost the slider piece you will need it to and it will have to be balanced. If you need everything yor looking at about $300.00 to replace it or have one built, still half the cost of a new one. If this helped please rate.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.
Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)
The trick is to pop the circlip on the end of the axle shaft out of its groove in the transmission gears. Shops use a fork on the inner CV joint housing, attached to a slide hammer. What usually works is to use a pry bar or large screwdriver between the CV housing and the transmission case, and pop the axle out. Be careful of damaging the axle seal on the transmission.
There is a "c" clip on the inboard end of the axle inside the differential gear carrier. To get to it you need to punch out the roll pin that holds the spider gear cross shaft in the carrier and slide that shaft out, then push the axle in and remove the clip. Careful not to let the spider gears walk out if you turn the center section!!.
First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.
My expertise is with Mits Galants but most of that carries over to the Diamante. The front half shaft axles on the mits galant has a circle clip on the end that slides ionto the trans. I assume the Diamante have the same circle clip. Thes are suppose to be replaced each time you pull the axle but usually you don't have to unless they are bent or out of round. These circle clips are suppose to compress when you shove the axle in and then expand once the axle is in. Look at your axles and if the clips are messed up replace them (the clips not the axle). Ideally the axle just slides in with a good solid shove as long as you have the splines on the axle end aligned. There should be a minor catch from the circle clip as it is being compressed.
remove the center cover facing the rear of the truck. you will see side gears with the shafts axle end at each side gear. a C clip will have to be removed from each shaft at the end of each axle. Then remove the wheels and pull out the axles
The rear diff. turns the rear wheels. It is located in the middle of the rear axle. It won't last long if you ignore it. May just need dearing's but if it is driven the cog wheels will grind to dust or drop off this can cause the rear axle to seize up and can be a danger because the back wheels will lock up. If you are going to fix it yourself let me know and I will be able to guide you through the process
IT SHOULD HAVE THE C-CLIPS HOLDING THE AXLE IN. WITH THE REAR AXLE COVER REMOVED YOU SHOULD SEE THE END OF THE AXLES. THE WAY TO REMOVE THE AXLE C CLIPS IS BY REMOVING THE SPIDER GEAR (PINNION GEARS) THROUGH SHAFT. AFTER THE SHAFT HAS BEEN REMOVED, THE AXLES WILL BE FREE TO PUSH INWARD AND THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO REMOVE THE C CLIPS FROM THE END OF THE AXLE AT THE AXLE GEARS. YOU CAN ALSO GET AN IDEA IF THIS IS THE TYPE AXLE LOCK YOU HAVE BY JACKING UP THE VEHICLE AND PUSHING THE AXLE IN AND OUT. THIS TYPE AXLE HAS RIGHT MUCH END PLAY. IF THE COVER IS OFF THE AXLE HOUSING YOU WILL SEE THE END OF THE AXLE MOVE IN AND OUT.
Tools needed- typical socket and ratchet set, Axle slide hammer, Wiz Wheel type rotary cut off tool, chisel, ball pein hammer, hydraulic press, bech vice
First you must remove the rear wheels, then you must remove the brake capiler and mounting bracket, remove the brake rotor. unbolt 4 nuts on back side of brake dust shield that hold the seal and bearing securly in place. then you must attatch the slide hammer to the axle shaft by using the vehicles lug studs and lug nuts. use the slide hammer to knock the axle shaft out of the housing. it generally takes about 10-15 hard slams before it comes loose. once axle shaft is free to come out remove the slide hammer and pull the shaft from the axle tube. place the axle shaft into a vise and use the cut off wheel to cut off the bearing spacer. cut parralell to shaft until you hear a snap sound once it snaps use the hammer to slide the spacer off the end of the shaft. next you need to cut the bearing off the shaft using a the same technique being careful not the cut the shaft or the seal retainer plate. once the bearing is off then you can slide off the old axle seal. now slide on a new axle seal, axle bearing, and bearing spacer. take assembly to a hydraulic press and press the spacer and bearing onto the shaft until it seats squarely and make sure its all the way down onto the axle shaft. lubricate bearing with gear oil. and install shaft back into axle tube making sure that the recess in the seal retainer plate lines up with the abs sensor wire. tighten all nuts evenly top off gear oil