Question about 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

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Rear brakes wont bleed. Sucks fluid in when brakes applied. Has ABS.

1991 Lincoln MkVII. Replaced pads and calipers. When bleeding the brakes, the front worked ok. When bleeding the rear, the fluid is sucked in instead of squirting out when the brakes are applied. Has ABS.

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  • Ward Wendling Jun 02, 2009

    I did let the lines drain a little and then tried bleeding the brakes again and it was sucking the fluid out of the cup everytime we pressed on the brake peddle. When we let off the brake, the brake fluid would then run out of the fitting again.

  • Ward Wendling Jun 03, 2009

    I did not have the engine running.

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  • 175 Answers

Try this. open the two bleeder screw at the rear calipers. leave it open untill the fluid drips generously. close the bleeder. try the brakes. if it works bleed it the nornal way. note: make sure you dont run out of fluid in the master cylinder

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

  •  Jun Magno
    Jun Magno Jun 03, 2009

    did you bleed the system with engine running or not

  •  Jun Magno
    Jun Magno Jun 03, 2009

    try to bleed it with the engine running

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How to change brake pad and check rotors


Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front for_car_toy_cam_02-04_sst_frt_dsc_asm.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the front wheels. toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  4. Remove the 2 anti-squeal shims from each of the 2 brake pads.
  5. Remove the wear indicator from each of the 2 brake pads.
To Install:
NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press piston into the caliper.
  2. Apply disc brake grease to the inside of each anti-squeal shim.
  3. Install the anti-squeal shims on each pad.
  4. Install the pad wear indicator clip to the pads.
  5. Install the pads with the pad wear indicator plate facing upward.
  6. Install the brake caliper with the 2 mounting bolts. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  7. Install the front wheels.
  8. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  9. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Rear TMC made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmcrearbrakes.gif

TMMK made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmmkrearbrakes.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain the brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the rear wheels.
  3. Remove the caliper slide pins.
  4. Remove the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  5. Remove the rear brake calipers.
  6. Remove the 2 brake pads with the anti-squeal shims.
  7. Remove the anti-squeal shims and pad wear indicators from brake pads.
To Install:
  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press the piston into the caliper.
  2. Coat both sides of the outer anti-squeal shim with pad grease.
  3. Install anti-squeal shims to each pad.
  4. Install wear indicators on the 2 brake pads.
  5. Install the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  6. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  7. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  8. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  9. Install the rear wheels.
prev.gif next.gif Brake Rotor Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
  1. Remove the front wheels.
  2. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the front brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the front wheel disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the front disc.
  2. Install the brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
  3. Install the brake caliper. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the front wheel.
Rear To Remove:
  1. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and the caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the rear disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the rear disc.
  2. Install the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bracket bolts as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the bracket bolt 46 ft-lb (61.8 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the bracket bolt 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  3. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 32 ft-lb (43 Nm)
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the rear wheel
prev.gif next.gif

Jan 25, 2011 | 2007 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Need help in replacing front and rear brakes on a 2003 mitsubishi montero full size


Hi there,

The pads are easy to change. You do not need any special tools. If there are no grooves in the rotors I would just put on new pads. Don't get cheap pads or they will squeek. I would strongly suggest that you flush out the old brake fluid. You will be amazed at how brown and gunky the old fluid is. Flushing the fluid regularly will help make your calipers and master cylinder last a long time. I like to use Valvoline Synpower brake fluid, it is a couple bucks more but it is DOT 4.

One last tip. When compressing the brake caliper piston you do not want to push the fluid back up to the system, because you might get some crud into the ABS module. Therefore, when compressing the piston, loosen the bleed screw to let the fluid flow out of the bleed screw.

This is how to get it done:
  • Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder resevior with a turkey baster. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
  • Remove the right rear wheel and bleed/flush the brakes with the old pads on. Top up master cylinder with fluid(important). Remove the caliper, open the bleed screw and compress the piston, close the bleed screw.
  • Install new pad and caliper
  • Bleed again. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
  • Repeat on remaining 4 wheels RR, LR, RF, LF.
Glad to be of help!!!

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1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

2 Answers

Replaced brake pads, rotars and callipars and brakes feel spongey. did bleed all 4 callipars til fluid came out and replaced brake fluid in master cylinder, still spongey can't figure it out.


U need the special anti-lock brake (ABS) bleeder adapter to get the air out of the ABS hydraulic control unit, that is why the spongy feel the system is no completely bled of air unless you hook up the tool that holds the hydraulic control valves open for bleeding

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2 Answers

I replaced the brake master cylinder on my 91 Lincoln Mark 7 with a non high pressure master cylinder and the rear brakes do not hold. Do I need to change the cal. on the rear also?


ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (and HCU-Hydraulic Control Unit)
General Information The 4-Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is an electronically operated, all wheel brake control system. Major components include the power brake booster, master cylinder, the wheel speed sensors, and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) which contains the control module, a relay, and the pressure control valves. The system is designed to ****** wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. When the control module detects a variation in voltage across the wheel speed sensors, the ABS is activated. The control module opens and closes various valves located inside the HCU. These valves, called dump and isolation valves, modulate the hydraulic pressure to the wheels by applying and venting the pressure to the brake fluid circuits. Some models are equipped with a Traction Assist (TA) system. The TA system senses wheel spin upon acceleration, turns on the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) pump and applies fluid pressure to the appropriate rear wheel. Two additional isolation valves in the HCU will also close to permit fluid to flow only to the rear wheels. The TA system monitors TA usage to avoid overheating the rear brakes. If the system does sense brake overheating, the ABS module will inhibit TA operation until the rear brakes are permitted to cool down.
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SYSTEM COMPONENTS The anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:
  • Vacuum booster and master cylinder assembly
  • Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
  • ABS module
  • Wheel sensors
  • Pedal travel switch
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On 1992-1994 and 1995-00 a scanner is used to perform the brake bleed. But on yours, I think it's different according to the manual.
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What do you mean change the cal. on the rear also? Do you mean Caliper?

Jul 26, 2010 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

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