WHEN I OPEN THE OIL LID AT THE TOP OF THE ENGINE,I PUT MY PALM AS A COVER AND THEN I TOLD MY BROTHER TO STEP ON THE GAS HARDLY ONCE,AFTER THAT I FIND SPILL OF ENGINE OIL ON MY PALM,IS THAT A SIGN OF ENGINE LOOSE COMPRESSION?
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Low compression is cause by a number of things. First a blown head gasket or loose head studs second burnt or bent valves or loose valve seat inserts. thirdly a hole in the top of the pistons from detonation or incorrect timing. Next broken rings and a scored bore will lower compression. Lastly an over heated engine will soften the rings material and they will no longer contact the bore to seal off the pistons. Blocked air filter will be a cause and carrying out the compression test with out holding the throttle wide open will also cause low compression readings
Right, so you have two TDC's-the exhaust stroke and the compression stroke Top Dead Center-and both occurr when the crank hits the zero mark on the timing scale. Always set timing with the number one cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. How do you know which is which? If you have a distributor, the rotor will be pointing to number one cylinder tower, when at TDC of the compression stroke. If you are on the exhaust stroke's TDC, the rotor will be pointing just opposite of number one . If you don't have a distributor, look at the valves for cylinder one under the valve cover. If at TDC of compression stroke, both valves will be closed. At TDC of exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve will be open. You can also find the compression stroke on number one by pulling out the spark plug for number one, and either put a wrench or socket on the crank pulley and turn it clockwise, or use the starter and bump the engine over in short bumps. Put your finger or thumb over the spark plug hole and feel for the pressure to build up. As soon as you feel pressure on your finger, (if turning by hand, pressure will be slight, but you can feel it) you are on the compression stroke. Stop bumping the starter and turn the crank on around by hand until the zero mark lines up on the timing scale-TDC of compression stroke! The exhaust stroke will have no pressure build-up as the piston comes to top-because the exhaust valve is open. On the compression stroke, both valves are closed as the piston travels up the cylinder.
The oil light coming on when stopped at a stop sign tells me your engine was already damaged before you had the power loss problem. I would not waste the 650 to put in an oil pump. You would be further ahead to just replace the engine.
First, check your engine oil level , while on level ground, add if it's low. (The oil viscosity should be labeled on the oil filler cap) Blue smoke is a sign of burning oil, not a good sign. White smoke is a sign of coolant mixing with your engine oil, a worse sign.
Your computer is telling you to check your oil, so do it, or get it done.
If your oil is low, top it off and keep checking it regularly to see if your engine is consuming it. If it is, I would recommend getting it looked at for either a leak, or low compression. (Worn out piston rings will cause oil consumption and poor performance.)
Drive your Dodge Caravan up onto ramps or lifts so you have room to work as you pull out the oil pump. You could also use a jack, but make sure you brace the front wheels and engage the parking break so the car doesn't roll. 2. Step 2
Disconnect the negative battery cable on your Dodge Caravan. Drain the engine oil and coolant into separate pans. Take the vehicle off the ramps or lifts. Remove the accessory drive belts and use an engine support tool to hold the weight of the engine. 3. Step 3
Take out the right engine mount and bracket. Take off the timing belt cover and loosen the bolts on the timing belt tensioner. Remove both the tensioner and the timing belt then raise the vehicle back on the ramps or lifts. 4. Step 4
Take out the oil pan assembly and remove the oil pump pick-up and the O-ring. Take the crankshaft damper out with a good puller. Use a puller to also draw the crankshaft sprocket from the front of the crankshaft. 5. Step 5
Loosen the bolts on the oil pump and take them off. Remember where they were since you'll need to replace them later. Unscrew the relief valve. Install the New Oil Pump 6. Step 1
Clean all the parts to remove contaminants and debris then install the inner rotor. Make sure the chamfer faces the cast iron oil pump cover on the back. Torque the bolts to 105 in. lb. 7. Step 2
Install the relief valve, followed by the spring, gasket and cover cap. The cover cap should be tightened to 40 ft. lb. 8. Step 3
Fill the rotor cavity with clean engine oil to prime it then insert a new O-ring seal into the oil pump. Put Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent anaerobic type gasket sealer on the flange of the oil pump body. 9. Step 4
Align the oil pump rotor flats with the flats on the crankshaft and install the pump slowly, tightening the fasteners to 20 ft. lb. Add the new front oil seal and install it with the spring side facing the inside of the engine. Even it out with the engine cover. 10. Step 5
Install the crankshaft sprocket with the special sprocket tool. Put on the oil pump pick-up tube and O-ring and torque the bolt to 20 ft. lb. 11. Step 6
Insert the oil pan and install a new oil filter. Lower your vehicle then install the timing belt and covers and crankshaft damper with a tool specialized for the 2 mm by 1.75 by 150 mm bolt. Tighten the center bolt to 105 ft. lb. 12. Step 7
Put on the accessory drive belts and adjust them to the right tension. Put on the engine mount and bracket then take out the engine support tool. 13. Step 8
Add fresh oil to the engine and refill the cooling system. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, ethylene glycol antifreeze and water in the cooling system. Start your engine and check for leaks.