- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Air in the hydraulic clutch release System. The system consists of the clutch master cylinder, line, hose and clutch slave cylinder. Check the level at the clutch master cylinder. The fill reservoir is along the firewall on drivers side with a black cap. It uses DOT 3 brake fluid. Add fluid if low and pump pedal. If low you have a leak. If full you have a master cylinder internal seal bad so you have to have the master cylinder for the clutch replaced.
Did you replace the master or slave cylinder?
If you replaced the clutch master cylinder, make sure you bench bleed it before you install it. Bench bleed it by getting a "bleed kit" (plastic fittings that screw into the hole where the hydraulic line connects to it, and a couple of hoses) secure the master cylinder in a vise (don't crush it, just hold it firmly), insert the plastic fitting and attach a hose. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid, then route the hose back into the fluid within the reservoir. insert a rod into the end of the master cylinder where the brake rod goes, then slowly push in and out until you don't see any more bubbles.
Then remove the plastic fitting and quickly install. Make sure to keep some rags handy to put under the master cylinder as it will leak a little while you're trying to get it installed. Keep in mind that brake fluid can ruin your paint, so wipe any off immediately.
If you replaced the slave cylinder and it's not bleeding, you can connect a long vacuum line to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and hold it in the master cylinder fluid reservoir. have someone pump the clutch slowly until all of the bubbles are gone, then bleed it the "old-school" way, by opening and closing the bleed valve while someone pumps for you.
Hope this helps
Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm.
Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder.
My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it.
There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.
Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.
Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
See instructions below from autozone.com. If the clutch still has air after following this procedure, try back bleeding by pushing the slave piston in while the bleeder is open, then closing bleeder before releasing the piston. This is similar to bench bleeding the slave, in case you didn't do that before the installation.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
This operation must be performed any time the clutch master or slave cylinder has been removed or if any of the hydraulic lines have been opened.
Do not spill brake fluid on the bodywork of the vehicle; it will destroy the paint. If fluid is spilled, immediately wash the surface with plenty of clean water.
Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
Remove the cap on the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder. Install a clear vinyl hose on the fitting; place the other end submerged in a clear glass jar partially filled with brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal slowly several times. After several pumps, hold the pedal down and open the bleeder, allowing fluid to flow into the jar. Close the bleeder valve almost immediately after opening it. Release the pedal only after the bleeder is closed.
Repeat the process until the fluid in the hose contains no air bubbles. tube. When there are no more air bubbles in the system, tighten the plug fully with the pedal depressed. Replace the plastic cap.
Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the correct level with brake fluid.
The brake system and the clutch master cylinder have the same fluid tank, look at the brake master cylinder fluid tank, on the right hand side about half way up is a hose that goes over to the clutch master cylinder, if fluid level is not above this hose the clutch will stop functioning. If the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the front side of transmission bellhousing, leaks then the clutch will stop functioning. The slave cylinder has a bleed screw, check these items and fill and bleed as neccessary. Hope this helps, let me know.
Examine carefully to locate exact point of leak. Could be the hydraulic line, a connection between line & slave cylinder or master cylinder, or a bad slave cylinder. Once you identify the point of leak, I can help you with repair info if needed.
Do not put oil in this system.It uses brake fluid in the reservoir.If the system doesn't have any fluid in it, there is a leak, and both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave should be replaced. They both were used the same amount of times, and wear evenly. When you add fluid, the clutch master cyl compresses the fluid down the line/hose into the clutch slave cyl. This depresses the clutch fork/arm and disengages the clutch disc so the input shaft into the transmission stops moving, allowing the trans to be put into gear. LOOK FOR THE FLUID LEAKING TO ISOLATE THE PROBLEM. This is a closed system, and the fluid never gets used, unless there is a leak.