I have a '85 300zx non-turbo that cuts out at 2300 rpm whether just revving in park or on the road. I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor and it ran fine for a day. Could have gone bad again? What would cause it to go bad. Is there something else that could cause the problem? i have the same type of problem witha 86 300zx turbo it cuts out at about 2300 rpm but only on the road not at a idle..?
If the car is a automatic then the connectors on the trans brain (located on the passenger side behind the spare tire) are getting wet. Try just wiggling them and see if it responds, if not unplug dry out and reassemble. Also fix where the water is coming in. I had this same prob and it drove me crazy.
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Re: 86 300zx turbo cuts out at 2300 rpm
How old is the fuel filter? and have you checked fuel press at idle and while driving ? and does the car have a cat on it ? you can get car at operating temp and check the temp of inlet and the out let is it over 100 degrees difference? and the mass air you put on is a new oem ?
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There are a few possibilities that come to mind.
3K RPM is generally about the break-even point for when Turbo boost would kick in. There is a dump valve on the turbo system that opens up and vents the extra turbo pressure under high-rpm situations where the boost isn't needed - say high but steady speed on a freeway. If the dump valve system is malfunctioning, then that anticipated turbo run-up in power won't happen.
Revving fine when in neutral may not tell you much, other than that the engine can rev. The gating system will (or should) run differently under load - whether climbing a hill or accelerating, this is where you want the turbo boost to give you the extra power. THat's where the exhaust gate should stay shut, or mostly shut, to allow the turbo to force more air into the pistons.
You might want to check whether the APC (Automatic Performance Control) for the turbo has a separate fuse. (The name might be different on your model, I'm remembering from my 80s/90s era Saabs). If the fuse is blown, that could also lead to lame performance, especially as I'd imagine that the system would be built to fail or go to full open if the APC fails or loses power - that'd keep people from having run-away power that they can't manage.
take it to an auto electrician and have all the ground wires checked out
what you describe is a loose /broken wire that moves after the bump and cuts off a circuit
moving what ever you move is moving something and making the circuit good again
You are hitting the rev limiter top range, which cuts off your ignition.
I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee and the problem drives me crazy, but it is the way the car is designed- as soon as you hit the rev limit, it shuts down ignition and your jeep will "buck" - a real pain when you are trying to accelerate into traffic!
You have the 4.0L straight six engine, yes?
If so, please take my advice and learn to live with the minor annoyance of the rev limiter- that engine is IMHO the best Chrysler ever made (nearly "bulletproof"!) and it was so reliable you cannot even get it in a jeep now! For decades, that engine was used in welders, tractors, generators...and yes, jeeps... and it is a favorite among mechanics for its durability!
There is no means of setting the timing if you are referring to a conventional timing light. The engine is designed with sensors that sense the angle of the camshafts in relationship to the crankshaft and whether it is on the intake or exhaust stroke on the #1 cylinder. This design is actually a little more complex than that because it has variable valve timing which means that the angle in which the camshafts open and close the valves, change with RPM's This give the engine the best of both worlds. It's like have an engine with cams designed for torque at low RPM and a set of cams designed for HP with a free breathing quick revving engine you would have on a race course. The ECM is constantly changing the timing and injector pulse width based on many sources of input, from, the O2 sensor, air flow, air temp, coolant temp, fuel pressure, RPM's and a host of other inputs.
SO>>>>>>>>>>>> in a manner of speaking, unless you are making reference to setting up the timing chain, everything else is under control by the ECM and related components.
Check your mass airflow meter. If it's bad, at least on my 1990 300ZX, the car won't rev over 2400RPM (it's a safeguard built into the ECU of the car). Grab one from a scrapyard and swap it in and see if that fixes the issue.