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Your starter may have a 'flat' spot or dirt on the armator (the part that spins when you turn the key). When the towing co tows the vehicle, it slightly moves the armator enough to get it past the bad spot. Autozone will test your starter free if you take it in to them. You have to take it off your truck. Also, test the solenoid on the firewall near the battery. AutoZone Auto Parts Accessories Repair Guides More
The starter relay is called a solenoid. On older cars the solenoid was attatched to the wheelwell or firewall inside the engine compartment.
On newer cars the solenoid is part of the starter motor.
With a 94 Suburban it is more than likely part of the starter motor and the whole starter motor/solenoid assembly will have to be replaced if the solenoid is faulty.
Here is a purge valve test from autozone.com. Is this what you needed, or what else?
COMPONENT TESTING NOTE
To relieve fuel tank pressure, the filler cap must be removed before disconnecting any fuel system component. Canister Purge Solenoid
Locations vary depending on model and year. Typical locations include the firewall (left or right side) and the rear of the engine near the firewall.
With the ignition off, unplug the connector on the EVAP solenoid.
Turn ignition on, measure the voltage at the ignition switch output line, voltage should be 10.0v or more. If the voltage reading is not 10.0 volts or more, repair the circuit from the ignition switch to EVAP solenoid.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the PCM harness from the PCM.
Check the resistance of the EVAP solenoid control circuit between the PCM harness connector and the EVAP solenoid connector. Resistance should be less than 5.0 ohms; if not, repair the opening in the circuit.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Fig. Purge solenoid mounted on V-8 engine
Fig. Purge solenoid installation on 2.5L engine-equipped vehicles
If it is the starter solenoid you are refering too, it is nearest the firewall, mounted to the engine through the transmission. Should be 3 bolts I believe. It is part of the starter mounted directly on top. If "no crank" is the issue, then you may be looking at replacing the starter motor with solenoid assembly. You can actually get a better look from underneath the vehicle just above the right hand(passenger side) axle where it goes into the transmission.
These transmissions are known for having this issue.
The most likely cause are the shift solenoids located on the top/front of the transmission. They can be seen near the starter on the left side of the engine bay when facing the front of the vehicle.
There is a fairly simple test that can be performed with a voltmeter that can verify if they are the problem. Any transmission specific shop should be able to check this for you for a reasonable price.
If need be the solenoids can be purchased used from a scrap yard, they are quite expensive new.
You either have dirty/loose battery cables, or more likely a battery that is in need of replacement. Check the battery connections 1st, if ok, bring the car to a parts store for a free check of the battery and charging system. I believe you will find that the battery is at the end of its life.
Your starter draws more amperage than nearly anything else in the car...Don't assume that the battery is charged unless you test it with a voltmeter. It must have at least 12v and not drop below 9.5 volts under a 200amp load. If battery tests good, check the connections to make sure that the terminals and cable contacts are clean and secure. If good, make sure that engine and starter ends of cables are also good. If clicking is coming from the starter, then it's likely that the solenoid is bad...Best to change as starter and solenoid together because brushes inside starter are usually found to be worn out just about when solenoid fails. Don't change the starter 'till other testing has been done. Some systems use another fender or firewall mounted relay. If that is making the click, change that first.