Question about 1994 Chevrolet S-10

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1994 S-10 Chev will not start.

My Chev S-10 1994 4.3L Vortek will not start. It has new coil, new plugs, new wires, new ignition module, new battery. I'm getting spark. Fuel pump is fine. I don't know if the injector is sending fuel to the cylinders. Any ideas?

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  • Annimater
    Annimater May 11, 2010

    Is the starter turning over? Does your instrument panel light up when you turn on the key?

  • chithapens May 11, 2010

    how does it sound when u crank it over.is it normal or little hesitation .any popping from the intake?

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  • Master
  • 4,669 Answers

Undo the air intake hose and see if you can get it to start by spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body. Also you said the fuel pump is fine. You have 55 psi?

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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100 psi per cylinder is way too low--should be in the vicinity of 150-165 per cylinder
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the timing for the engine should be around the 10 degree btdc and not tdc

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Pull off the coil ignition cable at the distributor and check for spark coming out of coil when cranking engine over. Use a heavy rag or glove to hold the wire 1/4 inch from a metal ground. Should see a strong blue spark when cranking to verify ignition is good. If no spark, check for battery voltage to coil on the coil primary. If you have current to the coil, suspect a bad coil, ignition module, crank position sensor, or cam position sensor, or pcm. The coil, ignition module, and sensors can be tested before replacing.

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So, do you hear the pump buzz on, when key is on? If that's good, then check your ignition circuit: check for spark at a plug. Use insulated pliers, hold end of plug wire 1/4 inch form engine bolt or ground source. When cranked, you should see a bright blue spark. Yes? Try another plug wire, too. No? Try another plug wire. If you have NO spark, could be your coil, coil pack, crank position sensor, ignition module. I would recommend using a diagnostic flow-chart to go through the ignition circuit. That way, you are not replacing unecessary parts_Expensive! Of course, if you have spark at plugs, your ignition circuit is good! Then you have to look further, like your injector circuit. Good luck.

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What would cause my car to not send spark to the spark plugs


The first thing is do you know when the last time was that the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires were changed?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require a firing order diagram any further assistance with testing or diagnostic procedures.




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