Question about 1986 Jeep CJ7

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Bleeding the brake system

Master cylinder leaked all of the fluid out--Any tips on how to fix it?

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My best advice is to leave it to a profesional mechaninc, i tried to repair a similar problem with a 1999 jeep cherokee ended up making more problems for myself and it cost more to put right in the end.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

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No brakes on a 1986 honda accord


Did you get a good bleed with fluid coming out at all four wheels? If they bled good, and the pedal still goes to the floor, you need to check the brake master cylinder-it is probably shot with an internal leak. An internal leak will not let fluid pressure build up, so no brakes.

Did you keep the brake fluid reservoir from going dry while bleeding? If it went real low, air might have got back into the lines.

It is not uncommon when bleeding brakes on an older vehicle for the master cylinder to suddenly develop an internal leak and require replacement . Here's why: pushing the pedal all the way to the floor causes the master's piston to push in farther than ever before. The rubber cups then travel over a section of the cylinder not usually touched by the cups-old fluid can develop a crud there and when the piston pushes over it, the cups can get ruined. To avoid this when bleeding brakes, put a short piece of 2X4 wood block under the pedal. Then the pedal will not extend the master's piston beyond it's normal travel. Of course on a new master cylinder, you do not have to do this. A new master cylinder does require bench bleeding before installing, however, to ensure no air pockets develop from there.

Aug 24, 2014 | 1986 Honda Accord

1 Answer

1990 jeep wrangler bleeding breaks


Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:
  1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
  2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
  3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
    1. Master cylinder
    2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
    3. Right rear wheel
    4. Left rear wheel
    5. Right front wheel
    6. Left front wheel
  4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
  7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
  8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.


  1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
    1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
    2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
  2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
  3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
  4. Check the brake operation.


Hope this helps.

Apr 21, 2013 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Why does clutch leak off and wont go into gear 96 toyota tacoma when you push on clutch pedal goes to the floor it wont engage clutch to be able to put into gear


the most likely reason is either the clutch master cyl. needs to be replaced.or the.slave cyl. its mounted down on the transmation under the hood find the resivore for the clutch. check the fluid level.if its low , fill it back up , and look for signs of a leak
you will probally have to bleed out all of the air from the system.its done almost the same way as bleeding the brakes. Good Luck.

Nov 05, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

My brakes are going to the floor


Hi, the likely cause is a leak that has used all the fluid in the reservoir and drawn air into the system. You will need to find the leak, repair it, and then bleed the whole system of air. Likely places for the leak are at the back of the master cylinder or at any of the 4 wheels. It is possible to draw air without a leak if your front brakes are extremely worn. If this is the case, replace the front brake pads and bleed only the front wheels. Please let me know if you have questions or need instructions, and thanks for using FixYa.

May 09, 2011 | 2005 Dodge Neon

3 Answers

My brake pedal goes to the floor?(spongy brake pedal) i added brake fluid and still have the problem.Do i need to bleed the brakes and if so whats the easiest way?


If you needed to add a substantial amount of fluid, good chance that something is leaking. You will not regain full pedal 'till that's repaired. Leak could be from a line, caliper or wheel cylinder. The master cylinder can also leak from the rear (check for a wet spot where it's bolted on)
If you did not need to add much, it's also possible that the master is internally bypassing and needs to be replaced.
Bleeding needs to be done after any hydraulic repair. Basic bleeding can be done by opening the r/r valve on the caliper or wheel cylinder and having someone hold the pedal down, then closing it as many times as necessary to get the air out, then doing l/r, r/f and l/f the same way.
Some ABS systems require special procedures so check haynes or chilton manual to see if anything extra is necessary. While bleeding, frequently check the fluid level...if it runs dry you need to begin all over again. Master cylinders should be pre-bled, then re-bled before bleeding remainder of the system (instructions should come with the part.)

Feb 02, 2011 | 1993 Nissan Pathfinder

2 Answers

My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?


well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
  1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
  2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
  3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
  4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
  5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

What needs to be done after replacing front brake pads on a 2005 s60 if the pedal goes to the floor? They were bleed after the new pads were installed.


The liquids does not compress, so there is no reason for the brake pedal to go to the floor. If you have no brake pressure, after bleeding the system, then the master cylinder is wasted. The brake master cylinder leak might be Internal, or External. Check around the master cylinder for any external leak. The break fluid is an excellent paint eater, so clean any leak before you remove the Master Cylinder. The new Master Cylinder needs a bench bleeding process, before installed in your car.

Oct 27, 2010 | 2005 Volvo S60

3 Answers

TRYING TO CHANGE MY FRONT BRAKE PADS ON MY GS300 LEXUS 1993. MY QUESTION IS WHEN I TAKE RIM OFF AND LOOSEN UP THE CALIPER TO RELEASE BRAKE PADS AFTER RE-INSTALLING I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO BLEED THE BRAKES LIKE...


Replacing brake pads involves pushing the pistons all the way back into the the caliper. This will force fluid up into the master cylinder. Sometimes it also allows some air to get past the piston seal and cause 'soft' pedal. In this case bleeding is required. Anyway the brake fliud should be completely changed by pressure bleeding at this time.

Mar 19, 2010 | 1994 Lexus GS 300

1 Answer

No brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders


You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

Feb 21, 2010 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

3 Answers

Air in the brake line - we bleed the brakes and get the air out, but it comes back. The master cylinder has been replaced two times. where is the air coming from?


Check brake caliper piston seal or wheel cylinder, leaking bleeder screw, ABS unit, brake line fittings, those are just a few points at which air could be entering the hydraulic system.

Good Luck !

Feb 11, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

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