Dash warning light not found in manual - hot to turn it off

2010 rav4 tire pressure reset button
Turn the key on (engine off), then press and hold the RESET button until the flashing TPMS warning light goes off. Or, if it is not flashing, hold the RESET button until the light flashes three times. Turn the key of

Do the gauges and warning lights work with key on? If not, check fusible links, AM1 for ignition key power. If the gauges/warning lights work, the key switch has power, so you can follow it to the starter solenoid. The start wire out of the ignition switch is a black/white wire, this is the hot wire to the solenoid, and only has power when key is held in start. With automatics, there is only one switch-a neutral start switch- between the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter .

With a manual transmission, the black-white start wire goes to both a starter relay and a clutch start switch (on the clutch pedal), those two work together to send the power on to the starter solenoid. So, no crank, good battery, power to key, follow the black/white wire, the start relay and the clutch switch, to the starter solenoid- a hot wire there turns the starter motor on.

There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

Seriously??? No talk about yr, make, model, engine size and mileage?

same problem here as well. I'm going to try and replace the ignition cylinder. Does yours start? Mine starts, but can't get out of park unless I move key to run (put in neutral) and start again, Issue dash is going crazy and running light are flickering. I noticed yesterday that the turn signal lever is hot, so it might be some short in the steering column

You mean by gadgets, warning lights and gauges? That would be from the ignition switch's run wire, the wire from the on position. This wire sends voltage to the ignition system, and to the dash for the warning lights and gauges-but not directly to the dash-the signal would reach the dash after being routed through the fuse panel to a fuse for the dash gauges and warning lamps. You need to check if that fuse is good.
Recall seeing any wiring diagram? The fuses are labeled either "hot at all times" or "hot in run or start". The fuses labeled hot in run or start are only sent power when the key is on, so power for those fuses are routed through, or turned on by the key being on. Depending on the car and its wiring set up, many will have relays that are turned on by the run wire, and power is then sent from the relay to that circuit's fuse in the fuse panel. This relay may be called the ignition relay. Or your car may have a different relay to send power from the run wire to the fuse panel.
The only way to figure yours out is to see a wiring diagram for it. Then you will see how power is sent from the ignition switch to the dash.
Wiring diagrams are almost always found in repair manuals. Check if your library has a manual for your car. Most libraries have quite a few repair manuals. Or parts stores sell repair manuals too, for about $25. Try to find a Haynes repair manual for your car. The other popular repair manual is from Chilton. My preference is Haynes, just my preference. I been burned by Chilton manuals sooo many times-incomplete wiring diagrams, incorrect information, incomplete information. Haynes are not perfect by any means, you want perfection-spend big bucks for a factory service manual ! In general, Haynes is more complete than Chilton.
OK, enough venting. If you have a test light, check for power at the fuse for the dash (may be labeled "gauges" or "instr pnl", something like that) with the key on. If it has power with key on, wire from the fuse goes to the dash. If that fuse has no power to it with key on, power has been lost between the ignition switch and that fuse-now you definitely need a wiring diagram to find the problem.

Here's a link to get an owner's manual.



http://search.stores.ebay.com/Car-and-Truck-Owners-Manuals_1991-Chevy-Sprint_W0QQfciZ10QQfclZ3QQfsnZCarQ20andQ20TruckQ20OwnersQ20ManualsQQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQsaselZ1040964QQsofpZ0

it is not a safety issues . the chip sensor in the car is defective. if it doesnt anoy you dont worry. if the sensor fails to warn you when the key is left inside then you should be concerned.

Try re-programming the remotes, here is the procedure for your car.
JAGUAR
XJ8 Remote Control Programming
1. Unlock the trunk with key.
2. Turn Ignition on.
3. Warning light on dash comes on.
4. When they go out, lift arm rest, inside their is a valley button, Press 5 times within 5 secs of lights on dash going out, Horn & Lights Flash.
5. Press any button on remote, remote programmed

Thank You Very Much for The Maintenance Required Light Info, as far as the flashing car w the key inside. I'm not sure what key we have? When we bought it it only came with one key so we tried to make a duplicate, which ended up not working because we later found out it needs a chip (or probably what I hear as the smart key?) If the light is supposed to be on (and normal) why does it need reset?

The Maint Reqd light blinks after 4,500 miles, and stays ON continuously after 5,000 miles. This is to remind you that you need an oil change. Give the info from you about your key, you do not have a smart key. You have a transponder key. Off topic, but, FYI, a Toyota dealer can program a transponder key for you.
Back to the Maint Reqd light. Here is how you reset it:
Turn the key on.
Make sure that the odometer reads "ODO", and displays the total mileage traveled...If it displays trip a or trip b, push the black button by the odometer to make the display read ODO.
Turn the key off.
Press and HOLD the black trip reset button until advised to release it.
Turn the key ON. (keep holding th reset button down)
Observe the odometer display.
you will see 5 dashes, 4 dashes, 3 dashes, 2 dashes, 11 dash, followed by five zeros, and the total mileage you started with will re-display.
Release the button.
Turn the key off.

Regarding the flashing light with the car & the key: This is the indicator to show potential theives thatyou vehicle has a sophosticated security system, and it CAN NOT be started by "hot-wiring" it. The flashing light is normal, and consumes no battery power. I hope that this helps you understand these two items better. Thanks for choosing FixYA, and the graciousness of a FixYa rating for my solution to you would be greatly appreciated. Glad to be of assistance; please feel free to call upon me anytime. Have a great day.